Thursday, May 19, 2011

Grow Everbearing Strawberries in Home Garden

Grow everbearing strawberries and you will enjoy sweet and juicy berries for eating right off the vine or adding to your favorite recipes or frozen drinks. Many gardeners grow June-bearing and everbearing strawberries to extend the growing season and to have a larger crop. This strawberry is easy to grow; one plant will produce one quart of strawberries. 


  Growing Instructions:

  1. Get your garden ready for strawberry planting in early spring
  2. Choose a garden site that has not been used to grow vegetables; potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, eggplant.  
  3. When growing strawberries it is best to choose a garden bed that is new; this will prevent soil-borne diseases and pests.
  4. Strawberries grow well in sandy loam that has been amended with compost or manure. 
  5. You can grow strawberries in the ground, in containers, or in a raised garden.  
  6. For in-ground gardens choose a hill or a slope for the garden site or grow on flat ground that is well drained. For healthy strawberries, you will need to select a growing site that has full sun and well-drained soil. Strawberries grow best when the soil ph is 5.5 to 6.5.
  7. For smaller yards or a balcony you may grow strawberries in a pot provided there is proper drainage and the strawberries get a full day of sun.
  8. Purchase strawberries as a bare root from an online nursery or buy direct from a local garden center.  Or you can buy strawberry plants that have strong leaves and stems.  
  9. Plant the strawberries in spring after the danger of frost has passed.
  10. Before planting bare-root strawberries you will need to hydrate them, do this by setting the roots in a tepid pan of water and allowing the roots to hydrate for a half hour.
  11. Plant the strawberries in a hole that is the same depth as the nursery container.  Set the strawberry in the center of the hole and spread out the roots so that they grow outward from the crown.  Backfill the soil and water so that the soil is moist but not wet.  Space strawberries that are planted in a row garden 14 inches apart. There should be two feet of space in-between rows, as this will allow the runner ample space to grow.
  12. Care for strawberries by keeping the garden bed weed free.  Also, water the berries daily in the morning with dripline irrigation.  Strawberries need 2 inches of water per week to produce plump and juicy fruit.  For best results keep the soil evenly moist by not wet.  Apply organic mulch; wood chips, sawdust, or shredded leaves around the strawberries to keep the roots cool.  Feed in spring with a 10-10-10 fertilizer.  
Tips:
  • Protect your strawberry plants throughout winter with a light covering of straw.
  • Everbearing strawberries are easy to control as they put out fewer runners.
  • Harvest strawberries in spring, summer, and fall
  • Remove flowers and or berries from nursery-grown plants prior to planting.
  • Strawberries planted too deep will not produce berries and will die.
  • Grow everbearing strawberries in USDA zone 4 to 8
  • Repel pests from the strawberry gardens with spent coffee grounds or mix diatomaceous earth food grade into the soil. 





Sunday, May 15, 2011

Dry Set Flagstone Patio or Walkway Installation

Firepit and flagstone patio desinged by Susan Golis










A dry set natural flagstone patio or walkway is a great way to enhance your outdoor living space.  Flagstone is available in many natural color schemes and I am sure there is a stone that will compliment your landscape. 


Before you begin this do it yourself project decide on the design. Look at natural stone patio and walkway books and research online for images on flagstone patios and walkways. 

Designing a stone patio or walkway is fun.  There are not many steps involved in the layout of the patio, however, the installation of the stone, sand, and gravel is high labor. I would suggest that you pace yourself with the dry set flagstone patio or walkway installation; you may want to consider completing the DIY project over a long weekend with a couple of your friends.



In 2004 I moved to a historic adobe home in the Southwest region of North America.  My husband and I loved the architectural design of the home and that it was a green home.  We also admired the landscape as the home sat on 1/4 acre. I knew as soon as I saw the landscape that a natural dry set flagstone patio and walkway would not only accent the home but would compliment the outdoor living space.
Flagstone patio and walkway with edge stone, dry set
 In order to complete the natural stone patio design, my husband would need to excavate the land. He was eager to rent equipment to achieve this task. And when the land was cleared we decided that we would install the patio and walkway the last week of June in 2004. 

We purchased the flagstone and all of our supplies at a wholesale rock company. For our patio and walkway we used 2 tons of flagstones and edging stone, we also purchased pea gravel and AB3 sand.  Our total costs for the patio and walkway came to $11.25 a square foot. 

Tools needed

A rubber mallet, garden tools, spade, wheelbarrow, level, white marking paint, heavy-duty leather gloves, 2-wheel dolly, plate compactor, garden hose, and a broom. (Note: you can rent a plate compactor at a construction supply store or you can buy one at a home improvement store or amazon.com

Flagstone patio and walkway instructions

Start the installation of your flagstone patio and walkway by deciding on the location and determining the length and width of your patio and walkway.  A walkway that is three foot in width is good for a residential home and the patio length and width is your choice.  
Outline the design of your patio with white marking paint.  Step back and view the layout and make changes if desired.  When you are satisfied with the layout of the patio and walkway you would then measure the length and width of the patio.  

You need the measurement to determine the quantity of natural flagstone, edging stone, course pea gravel, and AB3 sand that is needed to complete the project.

After you determine the location for your patio you would use your spade or tiller to remove the grass and soil to the depth of six inches.  Remove the excess dirt. 

I utilized the extra dirt to fill in low areas of my yard where the water did not drain and I also added it to a raised garden. 
Filling flagstone gaps with pea gravel

Use your garden hose to wet the base of the patio lightly.  While the area is wet, add one inch of AB3 sand and one inch of course pea gravel in the base of the patio and walkway.   

Compact the mixture of sand and gravel.  After you compact the sand and the gravel you would add your edge stone, the edge stone is a personal choice as you do not need it.  We added edge stone because I liked the look of the stone, I thought it gave the patio a more finished look.  

After the edging is installed you would then apply 2 inches of sand on top of the compacted surface.  The sand is needed to set the stones.  

Laying flagstone

Choose elongated stones that will allow you to walk across the patio easily. Start laying the flagstone in the corners and work your way to the center.  

Set the stones into the sand and then use your rubber mallet to tap the stones lightly.

Work the stones into the sand by shifting the stones or tapping with the mallet.  We used a tight joint with large and small stones.  We 

When the flagstone layout is completed you may add an inch, of course, pea gravel around the stones or you may leave the flagstone in the dry set.  We opted for the pea gravel as it did prevent the stones from shifting and we thought the addition of gravel was eye appealing. 

Stone firepit and flagstone patio desinged by Susan Golis

Complete the flagstone patio by sweeping the stones to remove any excess sand or gravel.  When the surface of the stone is clean attach the nozzle on your hose and set the dial on the mist. Lightly mist the entire patio.  Allow the patio to dry before walking on it.


Tips:
All the photographs that you view on this post are of the natural flagstone patios I have designed for clients. Do not copy the photographs and use them on your website without an active link back to this article and photo/article credit.







Thursday, April 21, 2011

Lily Growing Tips



Lilies come in a variety of colors and sizes.  There are border lilies that are mid-sized that may be grown along a walkway or encircling a tree.  

Then there are the smaller lilies; Stella de Oro or happy returns that look good grown in the front of the garden. In the back or in the center grow  Asiatic, Orientals, and tiger lilies in the back of the garden.  These lilies will add interest and height to your flower garden.

If you want to add an exotic appeal to your yard and garden then grow tiger lilies.  The lily is a summer-blooming flower that will produce flowers in July and August.   

Lilies that bloom in my garden.   









Growing Lilies
Lilies are easy to grow. Plant the lily bulbs in the fall.  Nursery-grown lilies are planted in spring after the danger of frost has passed.  

Grow lilies in full sun to part sun in well-drained acidic soil. If you have extremely hot summers then lilies will welcome partial shade.  My summers are hot with temperatures soaring into the 100s.   

My lilies have four hours of the morning sun, four hours of partial shade in the afternoon, and four hours of the late afternoon sun.  I shelter them from the peak heat and they are healthy. 


Planting Lilies
Clear your garden site by removing grass, weeds, and rocks.  Loosen the soil to sixteen inches deep.  Dig a hole that is six inches deep.  Add some bone meal and then set the fat flat end of the lily in the center of the hole the slightly pointy side should face up. 




Backfill the hole with the remaining soil and water the lilies well.  For multiple planting of lilies space your lilies 12 to 18  inches apart.





Tips
When lilies are above the ground apply mulch around them to help to maintain moisture and to discourage weed growth.
In autumn cut your lilies back.
Then add three inches of mulch on top of the lilies this will protect them throughout winter.


 Here are some tips on growing Asiatic lilies in a container: 


      

      Thursday, April 14, 2011

      Container Herb Garden

      A herb garden that is grown in a container has many features as it allows you to transport your herbs outside during the summer and bring them back inside when the weather turns cold.  A container garden is also a good choice for a person who has limited space. If you have a small yard or if you live in an apartment that has a sunny balcony a container garden is all you need.



      You can grow herbs in any type of container as herbs are not picky and will grow well in clay pots, window boxes, wheelbarrows, terracotta, or even vintage tin container.  Search for unique containers at garage sales, estate sales, and flea markets. The possibilities are endless when it comes to planting herb container gardens.

      A few years ago I had a client that collected vintage bathtubs, baby beds, mailboxes, and bicycles.  She had them lying in her gardens as features.  I convinced her to allow me to use them as containers and to grow herbs in them.  I moved the bathtub close to her pond and planted lavender in it.  The vintage iron baby bed held an assortment of herbs; sweet basil, sage, lemon balm, and thyme, with creeping rosemary growing off the sides.  I moved the iron bed close to the patio area and set up a solar spotlight to highlight the herb arrangement at night.  My client was thrilled with the herb container gardens.  

      When it comes to growing herbs in containers I would suggest that you use what you have anything that will hold soil and allows the herb comfortable growing space will work, provided that you have water drainage holes at the bottom of the container.
      image by freerangestock.com

      When you are ready to plant your herb container garden choose a combination of herbs that suit your needs. If you like to cook you may want to grow culinary herbs if you like to make soaps, potpourri, or natural mosquito repellents you would want to grow fragrant herbs and if you like to heal your body naturally you would grow medicinal herbs.  You can grow herbs easily from seeds or from a nursery-grown plant. 

      .


          

      Saturday, March 26, 2011

      Keep Fresh Cut Flowers Longer



      Keep your fresh-cut flowers longer without using floral preservatives by cutting your flowers before they bloom or buying an arrangement from the grower. When you start out with flowers that are ready to bloom they will open up throughout the week. 

      I enjoy cutting flowers and making arrangements for my home decor.  I like the idea of setting a cheerful floral arrangement on the breakfast table and prefer that the flowers stay fresh for more than a day.  Through trial and error, I learned how to keep cut flowers fresher and longer. 



      One way to keep your cut flowers fresh longer is to cut the flowers for your arrangement or bouquet in the morning when the temperature is cooler. Look for flower buds that are beginning to open. Cut the flower stem diagonally with a clean and sharp garden scissor


      Once inside I like to rinse the flowers off to remove any garden pests and then I will remove the leaves from the stems so that the leaves are not inside the vase of water, leaves that are submerged in water will decay quickly.   

      I will leave outward leaves as a little greenery looks good in a bouquet.  After I have trimmed the leaves from the stems I will look for a vase to accommodate my cut flowers.  I like to choose a vase that will provide the stems with plenty of room.  Wash the vase before you use it with hot soapy water and rinse well. 

      Fill the vase with three inches of tepid filtered water.  (water that has no chemicals, pipe sediments, trace minerals, or bacteria). Your floral bouquet will keep fresh longer when the water is fresh and clean.  Add your cut flowers to the vase.





      Maintain a fresh-cut appearance by removing the flowers from the vase daily.  Cut the stems of the flowers and empty the water from the vase. Wash the vase with hot soapy water before you refill vase with filtered water. Rearrange the flowers into the vase.



      By changing the vase water daily and cutting the flower stems you will keep your fresh-cut flowers longer. 













      Thursday, March 24, 2011

      Growing Tips for Tomato Garden

      Roma Tomatoes: Image credit Wikipedia Commons
      Growing a tomato garden will enable you to enjoy all the culinary and health benefits of this delicious fruit.  

      There is nothing better than picking a vine-ripe tomato when it is plump, red, and juicy.  One bite and you know that your labor of overseeing your garden was well worth it.  

      I grow Beef Steak and Big Boy tomatoes for salads, sandwiches, and salsa, and my husband grows Roma tomatoes for Italian sauces.  We both enjoy the flavor of the tomatoes and we like those tomatoes because they are rich in vitamin C and Lycopene.  

      Tomatoes are nature’s way to keep your body healthy.   

      If you want to improve your health by preventing your risk of some cancers then grow and eat tomatoes. 



      Gather garden supplies for growing tomatoes:
      Tiller
      Compost
      Tomato plants
      Shovel
      Stakes or cages
      Irrigation with timer
      Pruning shears
      Garden gloves
      Mulch
      Tomato fertilizer spikes





      Decide on the type of tomato that you would like to grow.  Many people like to eat tomatoes raw and some like to prepare culinary dishes with tomatoes.  The choice is yours to choose your tomato plants based on your needs.  

      When you decide on the type of tomatoes you would like to grow you need to next decide if you want to grow them from seed or from a nursery-grown container plant.  

      If it is early in the season you could start your seeds inside; sow garden seeds 6 to 8 weeks prior to planting outdoors.  A plant tomato outdoors after the danger of spring frost has passed and the ground has warmed.

      Over the years I have had my share of ups and downs when it came to growing tomatoes and I will admit that I learned how to grow this fruit the hard way.  I learned that in order to grow tomatoes you must meet all of the tomato requirements.  


      Tomatoes like it hot so select a garden site that is located in full sun.  A minimum of eight hours per day will keep your plants healthy and the fruit will be large.  Tomatoes also like well-drained humus soil with a pH of 5.5 to 6.8.  A good way to achieve good soil for your tomato plants is to add compost or manure to your soil. 

      Care for your tomato plants by applying organic mulch; pine needles, or grass clippings around the tomato plants.  The mulch will help to aid in moisture control, deter weed growth, and will enrich the soil with nutrients.  

      Water your tomato plants daily in the morning with drip irrigation.  When tomatoes start to grow the stems will weaken and will need to be staked or caged for support.  Tomatoes plants will grow to a height of 3 to 10 feet. 
       
      Tips:
      1. Remove the suckers that grow out in between the branches.   These suckers will compete for nutrients and will weaken fruit growth.  Pinch off the suckers.
      2. Refrain from overcrowding and space tomato plants three feet apart.
      3. Fertilize tomatoes once a month throughout the growing season.
      4. Tomatoes need one inch of water per week, do not allow them to dry out.  Better if the soil is evenly moist by not wet.
      Warnings:
      1. Cracked or deformed tomatoes are due to not enough water.





      Saturday, March 19, 2011

      Old-Fashioned Lilacs Growing Tips





      Grow old-fashioned lilac's and you will enjoy fragrant flowers every spring.  This spring-blooming flowering shrub will grow in your yard for many generations provided that you meet it's growing requirements.  


        

      I love my lilacs and in the spring when the flowers bloom, the fragrance is wonderful.   Over the years I have taken many photographs of my lilac blooms and turned those photographs here are a few.








      Know that growing the lilacs and getting blooms such as the ones in the photo card that it will take several years. So I recommend that you buy a nursery-grown shrub to plant in your yard.

      Here are some growing tips

      1. You can grow the old-fashioned lilac as a flowering hedge and it will provide privacy as the lilac will grow to 15 feet in height with a 12-foot spread.   
      2. Select a growing site that offers full sun with well-drained soil.  The roots of the lilac are deep and prefer to not be wet so plant on the top of a hill or in an area where the water drains well. 
      3. Plant the old-fashioned lilac in the spring after the threat of frost has passed.  
      4. If you purchase a lilac from the nursery gently remove it from the container.  Hydrate the roots by filling a large bucket with tepid water.  
      5. Set the lilac root ball in the water for a half-hour.  While the roots are hydrating prepare your planting site. 
      6. Loosen the soil with your shovel and amend the soil with compost or manure.  
      7. Dig a hole that is the same depth and width as the lilac container. 
      8. Plant the lilac when it is hydrated.  Set the root ball in the center hole and fill the hole up with soil.  
      9. Water well.


      Hand pull weeds then apply 4 inches of mulch


      Caring for Lilacs

      1. Keep the growing site weed-free. 
      2. Apply 3 to 4 inches of mulch around the base of the lilac.  The mulch will help to retain moisture and discourage weed growth.  
      3. In early spring remove the mulch and apply compost or manure around your lilac shrub. This is a natural way to fertilize your flowering shrub.
      4. Reapply the mulch after you add the compost or manure. 

      Other Garden Tips 
      • Remove spent flowers
      • Prune or shape annually after the lilac has flowered
      • Butterflies and hummingbirds will visit your yard when the lilacs bloom
      • Hardy in growing zones 3-7 




          

        Thursday, March 17, 2011

        Garden Clean up and Weed Removal

        Spring and fall is when you would cleanup your garden by removing all of the excess leaves sticks and weeds.  It is a time when you get your garden ready for the upcoming season. 

        Before you begin your garden clean-up walk through your garden and check the weed growth and grade your gardens by work level 1-3.  I use an easy grading system; 1 represents a garden that needs a moderate clean-up, this garden would be easy.  The next level would be a 2 and this garden would require some effort to do a spring clean up.  The 3 garden is the mother-load garden clean up.  The 3 level garden would need an extensive clean up.  I grade the gardens by work level so that I know what I am getting into and I usually tackle the hardest job first.   

        Make a list of products that are needed to do the garden work. I find it is best to be organized and have everything that I need before I start my spring garden clean-up.  If you have to stop while working, you may procrastinate, and spend too much time at the garden center so just purchase what you need before you start.

        I need these Products:
        • Heavy Duty Garden Gloves
        • Cushioned handle Garden Tools
        • Garden Knee Rest
        • Off Deep woods Pest Control
        • Waterproof Sunscreen
        • Yard Trash Bags
        • Preen Garden Weed Preventive

        Plan to start your spring garden clean up in the morning. Before starting any work in the yard I recommend doing a series of exercises that will allow you to stretch your muscles.  Stretch for about 20 minutes before beginning your garden work.  By doing this you will prevent cramping and sore muscles.  Work at a pace that suits your needs.  Try to get an entire garden done in one day and then work on the next garden the following day.

        For large flower beds you should section it off and then clean-up one section at a time before moving onto the next.  By doing this you will not become overwhelmed especially if it is a big job.  Remove all of the debris; last season leaves, twigs, branches and such.  Do a hand pulling of the weeds. For stubborn weeds, dig out the root.  

        Once the flower bed is cleaned, loosen the soil in the bed to about a inch, then sprinkle on some Preen Garden Weed Preventive.   I like Preen because it does not harm the plants or my flowers but it does prevent new weed growth.  





        Another way to control weed growth is to apply Scott’s natural scapes advanced color enhanced classic black mulch.  Normally I prefer to use natural cypress mulch but this year I opted for the Scotts black mulch .  The black organic mulch is a nice contrast to green foliage and also prevents weeds naturally. 


        Put the weeds and excess garden debris in trash bags before moving on to the next garden; complete each section before starting a new one.  

        Notes from Susan G
        Keep your garden clean up organized and you will work more efficiently.  If you have any questions please leave me a comment and I will respond.  Happy spring garden clean up everyone.


           



        Tuesday, March 15, 2011

        Stella De Oro Daylily Growing Tips




        The Stella d Oro with its golden yellow flowers will bloom all from June to August.  Plant this 18 to 24-inch high lily in a container or along a garden border. This lily is a great ground cover and looks good grown in a rock garden. Stella de Oro lilies are easy to grow provided that you grow them in full sun and well-drained soil.

        I grow Stella de Oro lilies in a garden bed that is close to my patio table. The flowers always look cheerful and certainly brighten the garden.



        The foliage of this lily grows out of a compact clump.  The leaves are long and narrow with a bend and point at the tip.  The dark green leaves are an attractive background for the vibrant yellow flowers. When fully grown the daylilies will be two feet high with a similar spread.  Plant this prolific bloomer in containers, along a walkway or in a feature garden, or anywhere that you desire the cheerful golden-yellow color.  

        I grow Stella de’Oro lilies along my back slope, I like the attractive green foliage and the yellow flowers look beautiful when grown in masses.
        Plant the lilies in the spring after the danger of frost has passed. This particular lily is not fussy about the soil or the PH however if you mix your soil with compost or manure the plants are strong and the flowers are vibrant.  

        Choose a garden site that has six hours of sun with well-drained soil. If your summers are extremely hot with temperatures well into the upper nineties, then select a garden site where the lilies will have part sun in the heat of the day. 

         Dig a hole that is the same depth as the nursery container.  








         Gently shake off some dirt from the root and then set the lily clump in the center of the hole, spread the roots so that they face outward.
        Fill the hole with soil and water well.  For bare root planting, you would hydrate your bare root for thirty minutes before you plant.  Do this by filling a bowl with tepid water and setting the barefoot in the bowl.  Plant the bare root so that the top of the root is one inch below the soil.




        Care for your flowers by watering them in the morning with drip irrigation. It is better for daylilies to provide them with a deep watering of 8 to 10 inches than it is to water them sparingly.  

        When you view new growth, apply two inches of mulch around the lilies.  Fertilize with miracle grow bloom booster in mid-May to promote blooms in June.