Planting Tulip Bulbs

Plant a tulip bulb garden in the fall season and the flowers will bloom in spring. Tulips are attractive when planted in masses along a walkway, close to your entrance, or as accent plants in your yard and in a container.

For an informal tulip garden, you may want to plant your tulips in masses mixed with other spring bulbs; daffodils crocus and hyacinths are a few that look lovely when grown in masses. 

 

Plant a formal tulip bulb garden by choosing a color theme that will compliment your home and landscape. A garden around a tree with a color theme of red and white looks nice or purple and yellow will certainly make your feature garden pop.  Then plant tulips in stately urns and set the urns close to your home entrance. The tulip gardens will add color and curb appeal to your home. 

Things you will need to plant a tulip garden

• Tulip Bulbs
• Compost
• Bonemeal
• Organic Mulch
• Garden hose
• Garden gloves
• Shovel
• Tiller (optional) 
• Water soluble fertilizer

Choose large tulip bulbs that are firm to the touch.  Refrain from selecting bulbs that are soft or have mold. Purchase quality bulbs, and you will grow healthy tulip flowers.

Select a garden site that has full sun with well-drained soil. A garden that is raised is a good choice because tulips need soil drainage, they will not grow if the bulb is sitting in water. 

Tulips will tolerate part shade at the end of the day but do require a minimum of seven hours of sun per day.  If growing under or close to a tree, plan on buying early spring blooming tulips.  These tulips will bloom before the leaves on the trees open.  If the garden has good light the stems will be straight and tall and will not bend toward the light. 

Plan your tulip garden by drawing the design out on paper. Use colored pencils to indicate the planting location for the tulip bulbs. For an informal garden of mixed spring bulbs, you would add these flowers to your garden plan. The garden design is very helpful when you are planting tulip bulbs as a color theme.

For massive plantings of tulip bulbs dig trenches that are twelve inches deep. The easiest way to do this is with a tiller. Remove the soil from the trench. Use your hands to loosen the soil until it is a light texture.  

Mix compost with the soil and fill the hole to 8 inches from the surface.   

Sprinkle bonemeal in the bottom of the hole. Plant the tulip (flat side down, pointy side up) at a depth of 3 times the size of the bulb diameter. Space your bulbs six inches apart. Cover the bulbs with soil and water well.

Tips

Water the tulip gardens one inch per week until the first hard frost.

When the ground starts to freeze, you would then cover the gardens with six inches of organic mulch; pine needles, or chipped tree bark.

In early spring remove the mulch before the tulip stem starts to come up.  If the spring is dry begin watering tulips gardens, with one inch of water per week.  Deep watering is good as it will get to the bulb.  After the tulip blooms cut back on watering.

When the tulip foliage breaks the ground, feed with a water-soluble fertilizer.  I use miracle grow bloom booster and have good results.  Remember to fertilize when the tulip starts to come up but not when the tulip is ready to bloom.

 Allow the tulip to die back naturally.   You can add mulch around the tulip after they have bloomed to retain moisture and deter weed growth.

If your summers are dry then water the tulip gardens.  Even though it is not blooming it is still alive under the ground and needs hydration. 

You can plant tulips as late as November.

Autumn Lawn Care

Autumn is the season when you ready your lawn for winter by fertilizing, weeding and thatching.  It is also the time to start a new lawn and repair an old lawn. By taking care of your lawn needs in early September through October you will prolong the color and have a healthy lawn that will resist weeds. 

When spring comes your lawn will be dense with no bald spots and grass will be lush and green.


Fertilizing Lawn
Here in the central states fertilizing your yard is best done the first week of September.  My lawn is a combination Kentucky blue grass and perennial ryegrass.  The cool season grass grows fast in the spring and the fall.  I fertilize my lawn once a year with a quality lawn fertilizer that has a slow-release of nitrogen.  By fertilizing in early fall my grass stays greener longer and come spring my grass comes back quick.

If you are going to fertilize your lawn with a winterize then apply a fertilizer that contains at least 20 percent more nitrogen and less phosphorus and potassium. 
Follow the directions on the winterize lawn fertilizer and water well after application.  

The best time to winterize your lawn is from October through early November. 
If you are unsure of how much nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is needed then I would recommend getting your soil tested.

Weed Control-Thatching
In late August mow your lawn to the height of two inches and then treat it with a pre-emergent weed killer to get rid of the common broadleaf weeds; clover, sow thistle, dandelions, bindweed, plantain. 

In about ten days the weeds will have died back and you would then remove the weeds and the thick tangled dead grass roots from your lawn by thatching.  Thatching rakes have curved tines which enable you to clear your lawn quickly and to loosen up the top soil. 

Care for your lawn in autumn

Planting Grass Seed
After you thatch your lawn it is now ready for reseeding your lawn or to fill in bare spots.  The best time to seed your lawn is in early September.  The cooler weather is agreeable and the grass grows quickly.

Irrigating Your Autumn Lawn
Keep your lawn watered especially if you have a dry autumn or winter seasons.  Even if your lawn goes dormant it is still living and needs water to survive throughout the winter months.  Grass needs an average of 1/2 inch of water a week to stay healthy.  You can go 2 weeks without watering and then water your lawn 1 inches of water. This deep watering will get to the roots and benefit your lawn.

Measure the water by setting an empty tuna fish or cat food can next to the sprinkler.  When the water fills the can then you have reached your lawn watering requirements.

Tips
Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass lawns in sun should receive 1 to 4 pounds per 1000 square feet of nitrogen every year.

Fertilizer used in the fall should be higher in nitrogen then potassium and lower in phosphorus. Grasses fertilized this way have shown greater survival during winter months than those fertilized with high phosphorous.


Learn more about fertilizing lawn in fall here: http://www.colostate.edu/Depts/CoopExt/4DMG/Lawns/mythwint.htm

Fall Container Garden Ideas

 

Fall is the time when you pull out the summer annuals from your container gardens and replace them with colorful fall shrubs and flowers.

September and October have been warm here in the central states, and my annuals are still blooming. However, the foliage is starting to fade due to the cooler nights.

Today I removed the annuals from the containers and refreshed the soil by adding compost to prepare for fall plantings.

In the fall, I like to add color and interest to my container gardens by planting shrubs, pansies, grasses, groundcovers, and chrysanthemums. I also enjoy planting urns of purple and yellow cold‑hardy pansies. Pansies are a wonderful way to add long‑lasting color to your fall containers.

These plants will create a container that lasts until Thanksgiving. If your winters are mild, the container may last throughout the winter season and keep your home’s entrance warm and inviting.

Watch: Creative fall container garden ideas

Tips

• Replace fading mums: When your chrysanthemum blooms fade, remove the plant and replace it with a fresh one to maintain continuous color. Plant the spent mum in your garden.

• Add dwarf coral red barberry: This compact shrub adds rich fall color. It features orange spring flowers and ornamental bluish‑black fruit in fall.

• Try caramel coral bells (Heuchera): One of my favorite fall plants. The foliage turns gold, orange, and pink‑variegated in autumn, making it a standout in containers.

• Accent with pumpkins and gourds: Place pumpkins around your fall containers to create a warm, seasonal display.

Elephant ear containers look beautiful in the fall as long as there is no hard frost. Pair them with yellow chrysanthemums for a bold seasonal look. Leave the elephant ears in the container until it’s time to cut them back, dig them up, or bring them indoors.

Planting a Food Plot for Whitetail Deer

 

A food plot will provide whitetail deer with nourishment throughout the winter months.  If you reside in an area that has harsh winters then the food may not be available for the deer and a cold hardy food plot planted in the fall will provide the whitetail deer with ample food.

Every fall and spring I sow seeds into an area that is 20 feet from my home.  I plant 1000 square feet of the sweet fast-growing forage seed for the whitetail deer.  When planting seed I prefer to use seed that is easy to grow.  No-till forage of clover, brassica, and rye grass seeds that I throw and grow in a plot of land where topsoil has been slightly tilled.

Planting a Deer Food Plot

Choose an area that gets at 7 hours of sun.  An area that has level land is preferred but this throw and grow seed can also be planted in a rocky terrain provided there are patches of soil and ample light.  

I live in the mountains and the land has limestone rocks, the rocky terrain does not prevent me from putting down forage seed.  The seed grows well amongst the rock. Normally I choose an area that is closer to the hardwood trees.  My home resides directly next to a nature sanctuary and the land I choose is a meadow surrounded by a barrier of mature Oak and Maple trees.  The trees provide the whitetail deer with a sense of protection from predators and hunters.  You can also grow the seed in a meadow or a large field.

Getting the land ready for seed is easy, clear the land by removing the leaves weeds and cut down the grass so that it is soil level.  I like to thatch the grass to remove excess dead grass and to loosen the soil I think this step is needed because it is good for the soil to seed contact.

Prep the deer food plot before it rains.  Plant the seeds after it rains when the soil is moist.  The moist soil will help the seeds to germinate.   Watch the forage plot so that the seeds to do dry out.  If you are able to water the plot with a hose and sprinkler then you will prevent seeds from getting burned. 

Before planting the seed test the soil for lime and for fertilizer; the soil test is helpful in determining what fertilizer and how much lime is needed to grow the clover, brassica, and rye grass seed.  Plant forage seed with broadcast seeder.  If you have an ATV run it over the seedbed. Do not cover the seed with more than 3/16 of soil.   If you do not have an ATV then let the seed be, it will grow provided you keep the soil moist.

Tips:

If there are many deer foraging then reseed the area to encourage new plants.

Follow the planting instructions on your forage seed and plant in the spring and fall time zone that is appropriate for your area.

 I plant throw and grow no-till perennial deer forage plot in September.  This year my fall was dry and I needed to irrigate the food plot with water from my well.  After I planted the seed I added a light layer so straw to help keep the soil moist and to deter birds from eating the ryegrass seed.   

There are many reasons why someone would plant a food plot for deer. They may want to deter deer from eating their spring bulbs or other plants in their yard and garden, or they may want to attract deer for photographs or to enjoy nature’s beauty.  I plant a food plot to watch the whitetail deer and to supplement their diet.  Winter is harsh here in the mountains and finding food can be hard for the deer.