The Three Secrets to Garden Success

 

Every gardener has a moment when the truth finally clicks: a successful garden isn’t built on luck or expensive plants it’s built on understanding light, soil, and the quiet, often underestimated power of patience. These three elements shape every thriving landscape, from sun‑drenched perennial beds to cool, layered shade gardens.

photo of Susang6 yard and garden

Light: The First Language of Plants

If there’s one universal rule in gardening, it’s this: plants need light. Even shade-loving plants like hostas, ferns, and toad lilies don’t want darkness they want filtered or partial light. Understanding how sunlight moves across your garden is the first step toward real garden success.

Morning sun, afternoon shade, dappled woodland light  each creates a different microclimate. Matching the plant to the light it prefers is the difference between a hosta that glows and one that sulks.

Photo of Susang6 Hosta garden

My own clematis journey taught me this lesson the hard way. I followed every instruction, planted multiple varieties, and still ended up with dull leaves and no blooms. I assumed I was doing something wrong, when in reality, I simply didn’t yet understand what the plant was asking for.

Clematis wants sun on its vines but cool, shaded roots. Once I learned that  and added a layer of mulch to keep the soil cool everything changed.

Susang6 clematis blooms 

Soil: The Foundation of Every Healthy Garden

If light is the language of plants, soil is the heartbeat of the garden. And not all soil is created equal.

The biggest culprit behind plant failure is often invisible:
poor drainage.

Soil that stays soggy suffocates roots, leading to rot, decline, and the slow, heartbreaking collapse of plants that should have thrived. Healthy soil should drain well, hold moisture without becoming waterlogged, and support the living ecosystem beneath the surface.

When gardeners talk about “well‑drained soil,” we’re really talking about soil that breathes.

Adding compost, leaf mold, and organic matter transforms heavy soil into something plants can actually live in. It’s not glamorous work, but it’s the kind of investment that pays off for decades.

Patience: The Secret Ingredient No One Wants to Learn

Patience is the gardener’s greatest teacher  and the one we resist the most.

My clematis story didn’t turn around because I bought a better plant or found a magic fertilizer. It changed because I became determined to understand the plant instead of giving up on it. A seedling from my brother was the nudge I needed to try again, observe more closely, and give the plant time to settle in.

Gardening patience isn’t passive. It’s:

• Watching how a plant responds
• Adjusting when something isn’t right
• Learning from failures
• Trying again with new insight

Some plants take a season to settle. Others take years. But when they finally bloom, it feels like a shared victory.

The Real Secret? Gardening Is a Relationship

Light, soil, and patience are the technical keys to garden success but the deeper truth is that gardening is a relationship. You learn your plants the way you learn people: slowly, through observation, trial, error, and small moments of triumph.

When you understand what your plants need, they reward you with a garden that feels alive, intentional, and deeply personal.

The Best Time to Work in the Garden

 

 

Where I live, summer isn’t just hot it’s brutal. Our heat settles in early and stays late, and the last thing any gardener wants is to be outside in the full force of an afternoon sun. That’s why my day starts early. I’m up at 6 and out the door by 6:30 a.m., ready to work while the air is still cool enough to breathe.

My gardening window runs from 6:30 to about 9:30 a.m. Three hours may not sound like much, but it’s the perfect amount of time to get everything done: watering the gardens, turning on the slow‑drip hoses, deadheading, checking for pests (including the occasional armadillo), weeding, harvesting, and tending to whatever else needs attention.

Morning watering is essential. Plants can absorb moisture before the heat of the day hits, and nothing is wasted. After 11 a.m., most water evaporates before it ever reaches the roots. When I worked as an estate gardener, we watered in the morning and again in the afternoon at 4:00 PM. That second watering wasn’t for deep hydration it was a gentle misting to refresh the plants so everything looked perky and alive for the family to enjoy.

Many gardeners call this the three‑hour rule: during the hottest months, work early in the morning to protect both yourself and your plants from intense sun, high UV rays, and heat stress. It’s a simple rhythm, but it makes all the difference for the garden and for the gardener.

Protecting Early‑Sprouting Bulbs from Cold Weather

Bulbs sprouting early in winter? Find out whether snowdrops and naked lady flowers need protection and how a light mulch layer can prevent cold‑weather damage.

Every gardener knows that winter has a mind of its own. One week the air feels like April, and the next we’re bracing for snow. This year, my snowdrops and “naked lady” bulbs (Amaryllis belladonna) decided to peek through the soil long before spring truly arrived and with a bitter cold snap on the way, I wondered whether I needed to protect them.

If your early risers are doing the same, you’re not alone. Here’s what you need to know to keep them safe and blooming beautifully.

 

 Why Bulbs Sprout Early

Warm winter spells can trick hardy bulbs into sending up shoots ahead of schedule. The good news is that most spring bulbs are built for this. They’re adapted to unpredictable winters and can shrug off cold weather better than we expect.

But the real threat isn’t the cold itself  it’s rapid freeze–thaw cycles. When temperatures swing wildly, the soil expands and contracts, sometimes pushing bulbs upward and exposing tender growth.

 

 Snowdrops: Tougher Than They Look

Snowdrops are some of the hardiest bulbs in the garden.

• They tolerate snow, frost, and freezing temperatures.
• Even if their early shoots get nipped, the bulbs remain unharmed.
• They often bloom right through late‑winter storms.

In short: snowdrops rarely need intervention.

 

 Naked Lady Bulbs: Hardy, But Worth Protecting

Amaryllis belladonna  often called “naked ladies”  behave a little differently.

• They’re hardy in zones 7–10.
• The bulbs themselves tolerate cold, but young emerging foliage is more vulnerable to sudden temperature drops.
• A protective layer helps prevent freeze damage and soil heaving.

These bulbs store their energy deep inside, so as long as the bulb doesn’t freeze solid, they’ll bounce back and bloom later in the season.

 

Should You Add Mulch Before a Cold Snap?

Yes a light, loose mulch layer is one of the easiest ways to protect early sprouts.

Benefits of Mulching

• Insulates the soil
• Reduces freeze–thaw stress
• Helps prevent bulbs from being pushed upward
• Maintains more stable moisture levels

What to Use

• Shredded leaves
• Straw
• Fine bark
• Pine needles

Aim for 2–3 inches, keeping the mulch slightly away from the emerging shoots to prevent rot.

 

 Extra Protection for Extreme Cold

If temperatures plunge into the teens or lower, you can add a temporary cover:

• Frost cloth
• An old sheet
• A lightweight blanket

Drape it loosely over the bed overnight and remove it in the morning.

 

 Will This Affect Spring or Summer Blooms?

Most likely, no.

• Snowdrops will bloom right on schedule.
• Naked lady bulbs may look a little stressed if foliage gets frostbitten, but the blooms come from stored energy and usually remain unaffected.

A little mulch now goes a long way toward keeping everything happy until true spring arrives.  

 Final Thoughts

Early sprouts are a reassuring reminder that the garden is waking up, even when winter tries to return. With a simple layer of mulch and a watchful eye, your bulbs will weather the cold and reward you with the blooms you’ve been waiting for.

These tips come from years in the garden both my own and the ½‑acre estate I cared for professionally. I write from lived experience, season after season.

Rabbit-Proofing the Garden: Practical Fixes for Persistent Visitors

 

One of my neighbors recently mentioned that rabbits were eating their plants. They suspected the animals were sneaking in under their wooden privacy fence and assumed they were coming from my yard, since it’s known as a wildlife sanctuary.

Bob seemed pretty aggravated. I told him there are several ways to prevent rabbits from munching on your garden, depending on your budget and preferences. Here are some of the most common and effective methods:

 Fencing: The Most Reliable Barrier

Fencing is hands-down the best way to keep animals out of your garden. A wire fence at least 6 feet high and buried 12 inches underground can block deer from jumping and, rabbits, groundhogs and other diggers.
To secure it properly:

• Dig a trench along the perimeter.
• Set the fence into the trench.
• Pour Quickrete or another fast-setting concrete to hold the buried portion in place.
  This prevents animals from burrowing underneath and protects your plants long-term.

If rabbits are your only concern, a 3-foot-high fence with 12 inches cemented underground should be enough to stop them from jumping over or digging under.

 Repellents: Smell and Taste Deterrents

You can use natural or commercial repellents to discourage rabbits. Popular natural options include:

• Dog fur, urine, or poop
• Blood meal
• Hot pepper or garlic spray

Keep in mind: repellents wear off, especially after rain or watering. You’ll need to reapply frequently to maintain effectiveness.

Motion-Activated Sprinklers: A Startling Surprise

Some gardeners swear by motion-activated sprinklers often called “scarecrow sprinklers.” When a rabbit triggers the sensor, it gets hit with a sudden burst of water. It’s not harmful, but it’s startling enough to send most rabbits running.

 Final Recommendation

While repellents and sprinklers can help, I recommend a one-time fence installation for lasting protection. It keeps rabbits and other wildlife out of your garden without constant maintenance.

Growing Strawberries in a Container

 

Just because you have a small space does not mean you cannot grow strawberries.  Plant everbearing strawberries in a container and enjoy fresh picked strawberries during the summer months.

Normally I grow strawberries in the ground but this year I planted everbearing strawberries in a container.   I added 3 plants to a hanging container to protect the plants from garden pests. (deer, raccoon, rabbits and armadillo slugs and snails)

I like growing strawberries in a container because it saves on space, plus I can easily move the container to a sunnier spot and plan to move indoors during the winter months.

Containers have better drainage; the soil drains well through the holes at the bottom of the container and roots are never waterlogged.

When plants produce fruit, you will be able to harvest the berries easily from the container making the container strawberry garden perfect for patios and decks.

I have many container gardens on my patio and find that these gardens add interest to my outdoor living space. The trailing plants like strawberry and sweet potato are eye appealing.

Growing strawberries in a container is a great way to enjoy freshly harvested fruit in a garden that has limited space.

When to Water Tomatoes Grown in Containers

 As a rule, the best time to water your outdoor plants is early in the morning.  The weather in the morning is cooler and this temperature will allow the water to be absorbed into the soil and hydrate the plants.

 It’s not a good idea to water plants in the afternoon or early evening because it its hot outside the water will evaporate instead of being absorbed by the plant’s roots.  However, tomatoes grown in containers will need to be watered more than plants grown in the ground.  It’s smart to check your tomato containers a few times daily to make sure that the soil is not dry. If plants need to be watered late in the day they water them, but at the soil line and not on the leaves.

 

I grow tomatoes in containers and find that the soil does dry out very quickly during the hot summer months.  The container plants need regular watering.  You do not want the soil to dry out, so I recommend watering directly to the soil surface until the water drains from the holes at bottom of the pot.   Then check your tomato plants again before the heat of the day. Water your tomato containers deeply. 

Tomatoes like it hot but extreme heatwaves might be too harsh for a tomato grown in a container.  That is why my tomatoes get 6 hours of morning sun, and shade in the afternoon when the heat is excessive. Then from five in the afternoon to dusk the plants will get three more hours of late in the day sun.  

Keep your tomatoes in container hydrated.  Know that if you water your tomato plants in the morning, then skip the late in the day or early evening watering.  The soil will dry out you will run the risk of your tomatoes cracking from receiving too much water after a dry spell. 

Other Information

If you have not added mulch to your tomato containers then I recommend that you do as it will aid in keeping roots cooler and the mulch will hold moisture.

Growing Tips for Larkspur from Seed

 

Larkspur is a pretty flower that comes in a variety of colors including purple, pink, red, yellow white and blue. The leaves on the plant are fern-like in appearance and the flowers grow in clusters. 

The flowers have no fragrance although my friend tells me that hers have a fresh scent. 

I have never gotten that close to the flower due to the   toxicity.  If my nose were to touch the larkspur the leaves could cause skin irritation.   Every part of this plant is poisonous so I just grow it for pollinators.  The Larkspur attract bees, hummingbirds and butterflies as the vibrant color flowers are rich with nectar

Last spring I bought a mixture of wildflower seeds and purple and white larkspur was including in the seed.  Here are a few Larkspur flower photos

 

I grew the wildflowers mix that included the larkspur in a garden bed that had full sun with partial shade in the heat of the day.  The seeds were sowed in rich well drained soil.  All seeds were planted at ¼ deep into the soil.  The flower garden is watered daily to keep the soil evenly moist. 

The best time to plant the seeds is in late spring or early summer when the soil is warm, the seeds will not germinate if the average temperature is below 55 degrees. 

Where I reside the summer months are extremely hot during the day but temperature is cool during the night.  Its important to keep the larkspur hydrated or it will die back.  This plant does better when the summer weather is cooler, rather than hotter.

Growing Tips for Fern

 

Where I reside part of our property is dense woods with fern growing wild underneath the trees. My husband and I transplanted a few fern plants to grow in our yard and gardens.

The first season I grew the fern with my Hosta plants, the second season I transplanted the fern to grow as a border plant along a shaded walkway and also planted them in a garden bed under fir tree.

Fern is easy to grow outdoors and indoors.  As long as the fern is planted in rich well drained soil and they are watered to keep the top five inches of soil evenly moist the fern plant will flourish.

Providing the right light is kind of tricky.  Most people think fern like shade.  But I have found they do best with some shade and indirect light.  You need to avoid direct sunlight for long period of time.  My fern gets morning sun followed by partial shade.

 

I do mist my fern in the morning as this plant does like humidity.  So, if you plan to grow them indoors, I find that bathroom, laundry rooms and kitchens are ideal growing areas.  For growing fern outdoors plant them in locations that offer production from direct sun.  Ideally under trees or shrubs.

 Ferns are really easy to grow as long as they are planted in areas that agree with them, they have the right soil and water so that they soil does not dry out. 

I have fertilized in the spring will a slow-release fertilizer to produce more runners, but its not necessary.

 Maintain your fern by removing dead leaves and keep the garden bed weed free.  My yard and garden is large and other than dividing and replanting in the spring to other areas I have never cut the fern back in the fall.

 Know that if you are growing your fern indoors in a container and see that the roots are growing out of the drainage holes that this is a sign that you need to repot your fern into a larger pot.   Shop for a pot that is three inches larger or a pot with amble space for your fern to grow.  I always clean my pots with antibacterial dawn dish soap and let it dry before filling with rich potting soil for repotting of the fern plant.  Water  well and place in a room in your home that has indirect light and humidity.

Other information about ferns.

It’s a good idea to grow ferns indoors because ferns can help clean the air by absorbing airborne pollutants and increasing humidity.

Yard and Garden Snake Repellent Tips

 Not all snakes are poisonous but if you are not a snake expert then it’s a good idea to take steps to repel the snakes from your yard and garden.  Here are some solutions that I have tried and found all of them to be effective snake-repellent

Copperhead snake Public Domain 

 

My home resides directly next to a densely wooded area and this area has its share of copperheads, garden snakes, and other snakes.  All of these snakes assumed that my yard was their habitat. Since my home is too close to a wooded area I knew I needed to take steps to keep my yard snake free.

My side yard heavily wooded with dense brush

 

If you live close to a park or a wooded area then I recommend that you take steps to make your yard and gardens unappealing to snakes before March.  Snakes typically come out of brumation (Brumation is specific to reptiles and amphibians where they sleep deeply during the cold season) in March or April depending on the weather.  If your temperature is an average of 60 degrees then snakes will be out and about.  The snakes in my area are most active from May through October.  

The best way to repel snakes from your yard and garden is to make it unwelcoming and uncomfortable. 

The first thing that we did was clean up the clutter.   We removed the down trees that were in the side yard and moved the firewood, logs away from the house.  Stacked logs provide snakes a safe place to hide. 

Firewood provides hiding places for snakes 

 

The leaf debris in the side yard that was on the limestone rocks was blown off and the rocks then we bought pea gravel from Lowes and added this rock to this area.  Snakes don’t like crossing rock so the smaller rock created a barrier for us to keep the snakes in the woods and out of our yard.  

Another way to keep your yard snake-free is to clear all brush and avoid growing dense gardens like daylilies or irises grown in masses. A manicured garden with good airflow between plants rather than dense vegetation is a great way to eliminate places for snakes to hide.

 

My Iris garden with lilies growing behind. too dense needed to thin out 

Because snakes eat small animals like mice, lizards, and birds you would want to remove your bird feeders as they are attracting the snakes to your yard. 

The best way to keep snakes out of your yard is to install a fence that the snake cannot penetrate.  An aluminum or a metal mesh would be best.  They are strong enough to keep the snakes out of your yard. It's like chicken wire, but stronger with a small opening.   It's best to install the fence so that it's 30 inches above the soil line to prevent the snake from climbing over.  Higher than 30 inches would be better.  

You also want to dig a ditch in the soil to put the bottom of the fence into the ditch then add quick-drying cement to secure the bottom of the fence in the ditch.  By cementing the bottom of the fence, you will prevent the snake from getting into your yard from the soil line.  

Keep the snakes out of your yard with natural cedarwood, clove, and cinnamon bark or oil.  A few years ago, I had a snake in my garden and put down highly aromatic natural cedar mulch and the snakes left my yard and garden.   

Cedarwood has a strong smell that snakes dislike

 

Here is a snake repellent product that I found online at Amazon Exterminators Choice - Snake Defense Spray - Non-Toxic Repellent for Pest Control - Repels Most Common Type Snakes - Safe for Kids and Pets - Cinnamon Scented