How to Build a Coyote-Proof Chicken Coop

 

If you want chickens in an area that is close to a wooded tract of land then, you need to keep them coyote-and other predator safe. Coyotes are part of our landscape especially near wooded tracts like parks or wooded tracts of land and they will take advantage of any easy meal. Free-roaming hens, unsecured coops, and flimsy fencing are open invitations.

When flocks are missing or only feathers are viewed, the blame often falls on the coyotes. But the real issue is poor preparation. Hunting coyotes doesn’t solve the problem it destabilizes populations and increases reproduction. The solution is responsible design: secure fencing, locked gates, and smart placement of the chicken coop.

A Proven Design: What Work

My niece lives just south of the city in a heavily wooded area by a park, where coyotes are frequent visitors. She used to let her chickens roam freely. No more. Now her flock is protected by a secure, well-designed enclosure that keeps coyotes out day and night.

Here’s how she built it:

• Fence height: 6-foot heavy-duty chain-link fencing surrounds the entire run.
• Trench and cement base: She dug a trench around the perimeter, buried the bottom foot of the fence, and poured concrete to prevent digging.
• Covered top: Chain-link fencing covers the top of the run, secured tightly to the side walls.
• Central coop: A sturdy wooden coop sits in the center, giving hens shelter and security.
• Locked gate: The entry gate has a padlock, and the ground beneath it is paved with concrete.
• Guardian dog: A Great Pyrenees watches over the yard, adding another layer of protection.

Her chickens are safe even in a neighborhood close to coyote territory.

 

Visual Guide: Coyote-Proof Coop Design

Click/open the card below to view the illustrated guide showing each element of a secure chicken coop from trench to top cover.

 

Step-by-Step: How to Build It

1. Choose the Location
Place your coop away from wooded tracts and overhanging trees. Coyotes prefer cover and quiet.

2. Dig a Trench
Dig a 12–18-inch trench around the perimeter of your run. This prevents coyotes from tunneling under.

3. Pour a Cement Base
Fill the trench with concrete and let it cure. This anchors the fence and blocks digging.

4. Set the Dimensions
Use 6-foot tall, heavy-gauge galvanized wire or chain-link fencing. Coyotes can climb lower fences.

5. Add a Secure Gate
Install a sturdy gate with strong hinges and a locking latch. Use concrete under the gate to block tunneling.

6. Secure the Top
Cover the top with wire fencing or chain-link and attach it tightly to the sides. Coyotes can climb if the top is open.

7. Lock Up at Night
Even with fencing, hens should be secured inside the coop at dusk.

8. Consider a Guardian Dog
Livestock guardian breeds like Great Pyrenees can deter coyotes and protect your flock.

 

Why Coyotes Target Chickens

Attractant	Risk
Free-roaming hens	Easy prey, especially at night
Open coops	No barrier to entry
Weak fencing	Coyotes can dig or climb
Outdoor pet food	Attracts rodents, which attract coyotes
Coop near wooded tract	Increases likelihood of encounters

 

Respect and Responsibility

Coyotes are not villains they’re opportunists. If food is easy to access, they’ll take it. If residents build secure coops, supervise pets, and remove attractants, coyotes will remain part of the ecosystem without becoming a threat.

Where I reside, the lesson is clear: if you want chickens, keep them coyote-safe. Don’t demand that coyotes be hunted because of poor preparation. Respect the land, respect the wildlife, and take responsibility for the animals you choose to raise.

A Breath of Life: Saving a Chipmunk, with CPR

 

In many online spaces especially social media you’ll find posts urging people to “get rid of chipmunks.” They’re labeled as pests, blamed for garden mischief, and dismissed as disposable. But in our yard, chipmunks aren’t a problem. They’re part of the rhythm of the land.

We’ve never had damage from them. No chewed wires, no upturned beds. What we do have is a daily routine: fresh water, critter food, and a garden that welcomes wildlife. Chipmunks come and go, darting through the liriope grass, nibbling at seeds, and adding a bit of joy to the day. They’re fun to watch curious, quick, and full of personality. And when one of them needed help, we didn’t hesitate.

It started as an ordinary day in the garden. I thought I’d latched the side door securely, keeping our cat Hunter safely inside. But cats are clever, and Hunter slipped out, darting into the woods. When he returned, he had something in his mouth. At first glance, we thought it was a field mouse. But then we saw a flicker of movement just enough to realize it was a chipmunk.

My husband acted quickly. He grabbed Hunter by the scruff while I gently opened the cat’s mouth. Out came the chipmunk still breathing, but barely. We feared internal injuries, but that faint movement gave us hope.

Without hesitation, my husband turned the chipmunk on its back and began CPR. He applied gentle pressure to its chest, counting softly while rubbing its heart to stimulate circulation. After a few careful rounds, the chipmunk’s breathing began to improve.

We nestled him into our liriope grass garden a soft, shaded haven where he could rest and recover. Twenty minutes passed. I checked on him, fearing the worst. But when my husband gently stroked his head, the chipmunk turned toward him. A few more strokes down his back, a tap on his tail and off he went, scampering into the safety of the woods.

The next morning, he was back. That same chipmunk, nibbling on the critter food we leave out for our backyard wildlife. Alive. Curious. Grateful, perhaps.

We don’t see chipmunks as pests. We see them as neighbors. And when one of them needed help, we gave it because every heartbeat matters, no matter how small.

Chipmunk Control: What Actually Works

 

Chipmunks aren’t pests they’re planners. Before you label them a nuisance, take a moment to understand the extraordinary life behind those tiny eyes. Chipmunks are territorial architects and seasonal strategists. Every burrow they dig is a blueprint for survival, complete with food chambers, escape tunnels, and nesting pockets. Every seed they stash is a calculated investment in winter.

And when displaced, they don’t just wander they navigate. Chipmunks possess remarkable homing instincts, often attempting to cross roads, rivers, and even lakes to return to their original territory. That’s not stubbornness it’s biological programming. It’s why relocation must be done with precision, compassion, and timing. A careless trap or late-season move isn’t just inconvenient it can be fatal.

To truly coexist with chipmunks, we must shift the narrative. They’re not pests they’re planners worth protecting. Whether you choose deterrence or relocation, do it with respect. Because behind every rustle in the leaves is a creature trying to survive, not sabotage.  

✅ What Works (Ethical & Effective)

• Live Trapping in July Only
  Use a Havahart-style trap baited with peanut butter and apples. Relocate at least 5 miles away in a chipmunk-friendly habitat with water, cover, and natural food sources. July gives them time to rebuild and stock their burrow before winter.
• Yard Deterrence Through Habitat Control
  Chipmunks thrive in clutter. Remove:
• Wood piles
• Ornamental grasses
• Cottage-style flower beds
• Bird seed, pet food, and water bowls left outside
• Respect Their Homing Instincts
  Chipmunks will attempt to cross any body of water to return home. That’s why relocation must be distant, safe, and done only when survival is possible.
• Choose a Suitable Release Site
  Look for:
• Wooded edges or brush piles
• Native ground cover and leaf litter
• Natural water sources like creeks or shaded runoff
• Food availability: acorns, native seeds, berries, or safe human-provided mix 

 What Doesn’t Work (And What Harms)

• Chemical deterrents like ammonia or Vicks Vaporub
  These cause respiratory distress and panic. They’re not harmless they’re cruel. Using them near burrows is a toxin not a deterrent.
• Trapping in September or later
  By fall, chipmunks are already stocking their burrows. Relocation now risks starvation and disorientation.
• Assuming destruction without evidence
  Chipmunks are rarely destructive when they have food and shelter. Feeding them critter mix, acorns, or apple slices keeps them content and out of trouble. 

 Final Thought: Coexistence Is Possible

If you don’t want them around, manage your yard. If you do, enjoy them. They’re cute, curious, and part of a healthy ecosystem. Either way, choose compassion over fear and facts over assumptions.