Protecting Early‑Sprouting Bulbs from Cold Weather

 

Bulbs sprouting early in winter? Find out whether snowdrops and naked lady flowers need protection and how a light mulch layer can prevent cold‑weather damage.

Every gardener knows that winter has a mind of its own. One week the air feels like April, and the next we’re bracing for snow. This year, my snowdrops and “naked lady” bulbs (Amaryllis belladonna) decided to peek through the soil long before spring truly arrived and with a bitter cold snap on the way, I wondered whether I needed to protect them.

If your early risers are doing the same, you’re not alone. Here’s what you need to know to keep them safe and blooming beautifully.

 

 Why Bulbs Sprout Early

Warm winter spells can trick hardy bulbs into sending up shoots ahead of schedule. The good news is that most spring bulbs are built for this. They’re adapted to unpredictable winters and can shrug off cold weather better than we expect.

But the real threat isn’t the cold itself  it’s rapid freeze–thaw cycles. When temperatures swing wildly, the soil expands and contracts, sometimes pushing bulbs upward and exposing tender growth.

 

 Snowdrops: Tougher Than They Look

Snowdrops are some of the hardiest bulbs in the garden.

• They tolerate snow, frost, and freezing temperatures.
• Even if their early shoots get nipped, the bulbs remain unharmed.
• They often bloom right through late‑winter storms.

In short: snowdrops rarely need intervention.

 

 Naked Lady Bulbs: Hardy, But Worth Protecting

Amaryllis belladonna  often called “naked ladies”  behave a little differently.

• They’re hardy in zones 7–10.
• The bulbs themselves tolerate cold, but young emerging foliage is more vulnerable to sudden temperature drops.
• A protective layer helps prevent freeze damage and soil heaving.

These bulbs store their energy deep inside, so as long as the bulb doesn’t freeze solid, they’ll bounce back and bloom later in the season.

 

Should You Add Mulch Before a Cold Snap?

Yes a light, loose mulch layer is one of the easiest ways to protect early sprouts.

Benefits of Mulching

• Insulates the soil
• Reduces freeze–thaw stress
• Helps prevent bulbs from being pushed upward
• Maintains more stable moisture levels

What to Use

• Shredded leaves
• Straw
• Fine bark
• Pine needles

Aim for 2–3 inches, keeping the mulch slightly away from the emerging shoots to prevent rot.

 

 Extra Protection for Extreme Cold

If temperatures plunge into the teens or lower, you can add a temporary cover:

• Frost cloth
• An old sheet
• A lightweight blanket

Drape it loosely over the bed overnight and remove it in the morning.

 

 Will This Affect Spring or Summer Blooms?

Most likely, no.

• Snowdrops will bloom right on schedule.
• Naked lady bulbs may look a little stressed if foliage gets frostbitten, but the blooms come from stored energy and usually remain unaffected.

A little mulch now goes a long way toward keeping everything happy until true spring arrives.  

 Final Thoughts

Early sprouts are a reassuring reminder that the garden is waking up, even when winter tries to return. With a simple layer of mulch and a watchful eye, your bulbs will weather the cold and reward you with the blooms you’ve been waiting for.

How to Build a Coyote-Proof Chicken Coop

 

If you want chickens in an area that is close to a wooded tract of land then, you need to keep them coyote-and other predator safe. Coyotes are part of our landscape especially near wooded tracts like parks or wooded tracts of land and they will take advantage of any easy meal. Free-roaming hens, unsecured coops, and flimsy fencing are open invitations.

When flocks are missing or only feathers are viewed, the blame often falls on the coyotes. But the real issue is poor preparation. Hunting coyotes doesn’t solve the problem it destabilizes populations and increases reproduction. The solution is responsible design: secure fencing, locked gates, and smart placement of the chicken coop.

A Proven Design: What Work

My niece lives just south of the city in a heavily wooded area by a park, where coyotes are frequent visitors. She used to let her chickens roam freely. No more. Now her flock is protected by a secure, well-designed enclosure that keeps coyotes out day and night.

Here’s how she built it:

• Fence height: 6-foot heavy-duty chain-link fencing surrounds the entire run.
• Trench and cement base: She dug a trench around the perimeter, buried the bottom foot of the fence, and poured concrete to prevent digging.
• Covered top: Chain-link fencing covers the top of the run, secured tightly to the side walls.
• Central coop: A sturdy wooden coop sits in the center, giving hens shelter and security.
• Locked gate: The entry gate has a padlock, and the ground beneath it is paved with concrete.
• Guardian dog: A Great Pyrenees watches over the yard, adding another layer of protection.

Her chickens are safe even in a neighborhood close to coyote territory.

 

Visual Guide: Coyote-Proof Coop Design

Click/open the card below to view the illustrated guide showing each element of a secure chicken coop from trench to top cover.

 

Step-by-Step: How to Build It

1. Choose the Location
Place your coop away from wooded tracts and overhanging trees. Coyotes prefer cover and quiet.

2. Dig a Trench
Dig a 12–18-inch trench around the perimeter of your run. This prevents coyotes from tunneling under.

3. Pour a Cement Base
Fill the trench with concrete and let it cure. This anchors the fence and blocks digging.

4. Set the Dimensions
Use 6-foot tall, heavy-gauge galvanized wire or chain-link fencing. Coyotes can climb lower fences.

5. Add a Secure Gate
Install a sturdy gate with strong hinges and a locking latch. Use concrete under the gate to block tunneling.

6. Secure the Top
Cover the top with wire fencing or chain-link and attach it tightly to the sides. Coyotes can climb if the top is open.

7. Lock Up at Night
Even with fencing, hens should be secured inside the coop at dusk.

8. Consider a Guardian Dog
Livestock guardian breeds like Great Pyrenees can deter coyotes and protect your flock.

 

Why Coyotes Target Chickens

Attractant	Risk
Free-roaming hens	Easy prey, especially at night
Open coops	No barrier to entry
Weak fencing	Coyotes can dig or climb
Outdoor pet food	Attracts rodents, which attract coyotes
Coop near wooded tract	Increases likelihood of encounters

 

Respect and Responsibility

Coyotes are not villains they’re opportunists. If food is easy to access, they’ll take it. If residents build secure coops, supervise pets, and remove attractants, coyotes will remain part of the ecosystem without becoming a threat.

Where I reside, the lesson is clear: if you want chickens, keep them coyote-safe. Don’t demand that coyotes be hunted because of poor preparation. Respect the land, respect the wildlife, and take responsibility for the animals you choose to raise.

A Breath of Life: Saving a Chipmunk, with CPR

 

In many online spaces especially social media you’ll find posts urging people to “get rid of chipmunks.” They’re labeled as pests, blamed for garden mischief, and dismissed as disposable. But in our yard, chipmunks aren’t a problem. They’re part of the rhythm of the land.

We’ve never had damage from them. No chewed wires, no upturned beds. What we do have is a daily routine: fresh water, critter food, and a garden that welcomes wildlife. Chipmunks come and go, darting through the liriope grass, nibbling at seeds, and adding a bit of joy to the day. They’re fun to watch curious, quick, and full of personality. And when one of them needed help, we didn’t hesitate.

It started as an ordinary day in the garden. I thought I’d latched the side door securely, keeping our cat Hunter safely inside. But cats are clever, and Hunter slipped out, darting into the woods. When he returned, he had something in his mouth. At first glance, we thought it was a field mouse. But then we saw a flicker of movement just enough to realize it was a chipmunk.

My husband acted quickly. He grabbed Hunter by the scruff while I gently opened the cat’s mouth. Out came the chipmunk still breathing, but barely. We feared internal injuries, but that faint movement gave us hope.

Without hesitation, my husband turned the chipmunk on its back and began CPR. He applied gentle pressure to its chest, counting softly while rubbing its heart to stimulate circulation. After a few careful rounds, the chipmunk’s breathing began to improve.

We nestled him into our liriope grass garden a soft, shaded haven where he could rest and recover. Twenty minutes passed. I checked on him, fearing the worst. But when my husband gently stroked his head, the chipmunk turned toward him. A few more strokes down his back, a tap on his tail and off he went, scampering into the safety of the woods.

The next morning, he was back. That same chipmunk, nibbling on the critter food we leave out for our backyard wildlife. Alive. Curious. Grateful, perhaps.

We don’t see chipmunks as pests. We see them as neighbors. And when one of them needed help, we gave it because every heartbeat matters, no matter how small.

Chipmunk Control: What Actually Works

 

Chipmunks aren’t pests they’re planners. Before you label them a nuisance, take a moment to understand the extraordinary life behind those tiny eyes. Chipmunks are territorial architects and seasonal strategists. Every burrow they dig is a blueprint for survival, complete with food chambers, escape tunnels, and nesting pockets. Every seed they stash is a calculated investment in winter.

And when displaced, they don’t just wander they navigate. Chipmunks possess remarkable homing instincts, often attempting to cross roads, rivers, and even lakes to return to their original territory. That’s not stubbornness it’s biological programming. It’s why relocation must be done with precision, compassion, and timing. A careless trap or late-season move isn’t just inconvenient it can be fatal.

To truly coexist with chipmunks, we must shift the narrative. They’re not pests they’re planners worth protecting. Whether you choose deterrence or relocation, do it with respect. Because behind every rustle in the leaves is a creature trying to survive, not sabotage.  

✅ What Works (Ethical & Effective)

• Live Trapping in July Only
  Use a Havahart-style trap baited with peanut butter and apples. Relocate at least 5 miles away in a chipmunk-friendly habitat with water, cover, and natural food sources. July gives them time to rebuild and stock their burrow before winter.
• Yard Deterrence Through Habitat Control
  Chipmunks thrive in clutter. Remove:
• Wood piles
• Ornamental grasses
• Cottage-style flower beds
• Bird seed, pet food, and water bowls left outside
• Respect Their Homing Instincts
  Chipmunks will attempt to cross any body of water to return home. That’s why relocation must be distant, safe, and done only when survival is possible.
• Choose a Suitable Release Site
  Look for:
• Wooded edges or brush piles
• Native ground cover and leaf litter
• Natural water sources like creeks or shaded runoff
• Food availability: acorns, native seeds, berries, or safe human-provided mix 

 What Doesn’t Work (And What Harms)

• Chemical deterrents like ammonia or Vicks Vaporub
  These cause respiratory distress and panic. They’re not harmless they’re cruel. Using them near burrows is a toxin not a deterrent.
• Trapping in September or later
  By fall, chipmunks are already stocking their burrows. Relocation now risks starvation and disorientation.
• Assuming destruction without evidence
  Chipmunks are rarely destructive when they have food and shelter. Feeding them critter mix, acorns, or apple slices keeps them content and out of trouble. 

 Final Thought: Coexistence Is Possible

If you don’t want them around, manage your yard. If you do, enjoy them. They’re cute, curious, and part of a healthy ecosystem. Either way, choose compassion over fear and facts over assumptions.

Rabbit-Proofing the Garden: Practical Fixes for Persistent Visitors

 

One of my neighbors recently mentioned that rabbits were eating their plants. They suspected the animals were sneaking in under their wooden privacy fence and assumed they were coming from my yard, since it’s known as a wildlife sanctuary.

Bob seemed pretty aggravated. I told him there are several ways to prevent rabbits from munching on your garden, depending on your budget and preferences. Here are some of the most common and effective methods:

 Fencing: The Most Reliable Barrier

Fencing is hands-down the best way to keep animals out of your garden. A wire fence at least 6 feet high and buried 12 inches underground can block deer from jumping and, rabbits, groundhogs and other diggers.
To secure it properly:

• Dig a trench along the perimeter.
• Set the fence into the trench.
• Pour Quickrete or another fast-setting concrete to hold the buried portion in place.
  This prevents animals from burrowing underneath and protects your plants long-term.

If rabbits are your only concern, a 3-foot-high fence with 12 inches cemented underground should be enough to stop them from jumping over or digging under.

 Repellents: Smell and Taste Deterrents

You can use natural or commercial repellents to discourage rabbits. Popular natural options include:

• Dog fur, urine, or poop
• Blood meal
• Hot pepper or garlic spray

Keep in mind: repellents wear off, especially after rain or watering. You’ll need to reapply frequently to maintain effectiveness.

Motion-Activated Sprinklers: A Startling Surprise

Some gardeners swear by motion-activated sprinklers often called “scarecrow sprinklers.” When a rabbit triggers the sensor, it gets hit with a sudden burst of water. It’s not harmful, but it’s startling enough to send most rabbits running.

 Final Recommendation

While repellents and sprinklers can help, I recommend a one-time fence installation for lasting protection. It keeps rabbits and other wildlife out of your garden without constant maintenance.

DIY Peppermint Bug Spray for Gardeners: A Natural, Skin-Safe Pest Control

 

Repel mosquitoes, ticks, and more without harsh chemicals or synthetic additives

If you’ve ever stepped outside and felt like a walking buffet for bugs, you’re not alone. Many gardeners and outdoor advocates turn to homemade sprays for protection but not all recipes are created equal. Some include dish soap or chemical additives that aren’t meant for prolonged skin contact.

This post offers a gentle, effective alternative: a peppermint-based spray that’s safe for skin, clothing, and conscience.

 

 The Safer DIY Recipe

This version skips the dish soap and uses witch hazel or vodka to help disperse the essential oils. It’s gentle enough for daily use and smells refreshingly minty.

Ingredients:

• 20 drops peppermint essential oil
• 2 cups distilled water
• 1 tablespoon witch hazel or vodka
• Optional: 5 drops lavender or eucalyptus oil for added repellent power

Instructions:

1.    Combine all ingredients in a spray bottle.

2.    Shake well before each use.

3.    Spray on clothing, exposed skin, and gear before heading outdoors.

 

What Bugs Does It Repel?

Peppermint oil is a proven natural repellent against a wide range of pests. When used in a properly diluted spray, it helps deter ants, spiders, mosquitoes, roaches, moths, gnats, ticks, and flies including black flies, which are notoriously persistent. It’s also known to discourage mice from nesting or lingering in treated areas, thanks to its strong scent. This makes peppermint spray especially useful for gardeners, hikers, and outdoor advocates who want protection without resorting to harsh chemicals. Whether you're tending raised beds, walking wooded trails, or hosting a backyard gathering, this gentle blend offers a layer of defense that respects both your skin and your surroundings.

 

A Note on Dish Soap

While some DIY recipes include dish soap to help emulsify oils, it’s not designed for skin contact. Dawn and similar soaps contain surfactants that can strip your skin’s natural oils, leading to dryness, irritation, or allergic reactions. If you’re spraying your body or clothing, skip the soap.

⚠️ Pet Safety Warning: Peppermint oil is toxic to cats and may cause adverse reactions in dogs. Do not spray this mixture directly on pets or their bedding. Keep animals away from freshly treated areas until the scent has dissipated. Always consult your veterinarian before using essential oils around pets.

 

 Seasonal Note on Oak Mites

As fall approaches, many regions especially in the Midwest see a rise in oak tree mite activity. These microscopic pests (Pyemotes herfsi) often drop from infested oak trees and bite humans during outdoor tasks like leaf raking or yard cleanup. While peppermint oil may help deter certain insects and mites, it is not proven to prevent oak mite bites, especially when mites are airborne or already present on clothing. For best protection, wear long sleeves, avoid standing under infested trees, and shower promptly after outdoor exposure. This spray is intended as a general repellent, not a guaranteed barrier against oak mites.

 

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Source Links

For those who want to dig deeper into the science behind peppermint oil’s pest-repelling power, here are a few verified resources:

• The Science Behind Peppermint as a Pest Deterrent – Pesky Little Critters
• Is Peppermint Oil the Secret to a Bug-Free Home? – The Spruce
• The Buzz on Peppermint Oil: Does it Really Repel Bugs? – Kitchen Journal

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Author Disclaimer

This post reflects my personal experience and research as a wildlife advocate and past estate gardener. All recipes and recommendations are intended for educational purposes only. Always patch-test any spray before full use, and consult a healthcare provider if you have known sensitivities or allergies

Why Did My Nikko Blue Hydrangea Turn Pink? Understanding Soil Chemistry

 

Last spring, my brother gifted me a gorgeous Nikko blue hydrangea, and its vivid sky-blue flowers instantly became the star of my garden. I nurtured it through the seasons, imagining it would bloom again in that same blue hue. But this year, something unexpected happened: the very same plant burst into a bold splash of pink. I couldn’t help but wonder what changed?

AI generated image 

Hydrangea color shifts are a fascinating expression of soil science. The flower shade isn’t random it’s rooted in the chemistry of your garden. Specifically, the color reflects your soil’s pH level and the presence (or absence) of aluminum. If your soil is acidic, aluminum becomes available to the plant, turning blooms blue. More alkaline soil, however, locks aluminum out, nudging flowers toward pink or even lilac.

Here in the Ozarks, with its rugged terrain and abundance of limestone, I assumed our rocky soil leaned naturally acidic. But limestone-rich earth is more alkaline than it appears. That’s likely what caused my blue hydrangea to shift revealing how important it is to test your garden's soil pH if you're aiming to maintain or change hydrangea color. It's one of those small steps in blue hydrangea care that makes all the difference.

So how do you get blue hydrangeas in alkaline soil? First, conduct a simple soil test to find your current PH. If it reads above 6.0, you’ll need to gently nudge it downward. Gardeners often turn to acidic soil amendments like pine needles, coffee grounds, or peat moss to begin rebalancing. For a quicker fix, many use aluminum sulfate a popular choice in how to change hydrangea color though it's essential to follow instructions carefully. Even your water source matters: hard tap water with minerals can raise soil pH over time, so switching to rainwater may help stabilize acidity.

The shift in color doesn’t mean your plant is unhealthy far from it. My Nikko hydrangea is thriving with its pink blossoms, larger and brighter than ever. But if you’re dreaming of those cooler blue hues and want to restore them, understanding your soil’s character is key. It’s not just about gardening it’s about listening to what your landscape is trying to tell you.

Hydrangeas have a charming way of whispering soil secrets with every bloom. Whether they wear blush or blue, they invite us to look deeper and connect more thoughtfully with the ground we tend.