Rewilding Your Backyard: Simple Ways to Let Nature Back In

 

 

A year of limited gardening taught me the beauty of rewilding. See how naturalized perennials created a full season of blooms with less work and more joy

For years I planted perennials with the hope that, over time, they would naturalize and return in greater numbers. I didn’t fully understand the long‑term benefits of that work  I only knew I loved planting, dividing, and tending them. Last year, when I became a full‑time caregiver to my husband, I finally learned what all those years of planting had given me.

With limited time for gardening, I couldn’t rely on my usual routine of adding annuals to fill the gaps between perennial blooms. Normally, those annuals carried my garden’s color well into fall. But last year, I simply didn’t have the time or energy. Instead, I let nature take the lead. I allowed the perennials, flowering shrubs, and naturalized plantings to bloom in their own rhythm.

What surprised me was how complete and beautiful the garden became on its own.

A Season of Natural Bloom Cycles

The garden unfolded like a slow, steady symphony:

• Late winter: snowdrops
• Early spring: purple crocus, early daffodils
• Mid-spring: hyacinths, tulips, more daffodils
• Late spring: forsythia, dogwood, lilacs, and finally the irises, peonies
• Early summer: lilies both stargazers and daylilies
• Mid-summer: bee balm, coneflowers, black‑eyed Susans, Shasta daisies, hydrangeas
• Late July: the fragrant evening bloom of my 4 o’clocks
• Late summer: hundreds of naked ladies and sweet autumn clematis
• Fall: chrysanthemums carrying the season to its close

A few photographs of my perennial flowers & gardens

With so many naturalized perennials returning in waves, I didn’t need  or even miss  the annuals. The garden was full, colorful, and alive from February through fall.

The Gift of Letting Nature Back In

Rewilding doesn’t have to mean letting your yard grow wild and untended. Sometimes it simply means trusting the plants you’ve nurtured over the years to take care of themselves and you.

My work last year was minimal: deadheading spent blooms, fertilizing, watering, and spot‑weeding the mulched beds. The garden did the rest. It reminded me that a well‑planned perennial garden is a living system, capable of thriving even when life pulls you away.

Letting nature back into my garden didn’t let me down. It carried me through a difficult year with beauty, color, and the comfort of knowing that the work I had done over decades was still giving back.

The Best Time to Work in the Garden

 

 

Where I live, summer isn’t just hot it’s brutal. Our heat settles in early and stays late, and the last thing any gardener wants is to be outside in the full force of an afternoon sun. That’s why my day starts early. I’m up at 6 and out the door by 6:30 a.m., ready to work while the air is still cool enough to breathe.

My gardening window runs from 6:30 to about 9:30 a.m. Three hours may not sound like much, but it’s the perfect amount of time to get everything done: watering the gardens, turning on the slow‑drip hoses, deadheading, checking for pests (including the occasional armadillo), weeding, harvesting, and tending to whatever else needs attention.

Morning watering is essential. Plants can absorb moisture before the heat of the day hits, and nothing is wasted. After 11 a.m., most water evaporates before it ever reaches the roots. When I worked as an estate gardener, we watered in the morning and again in the afternoon at 4:00 PM. That second watering wasn’t for deep hydration it was a gentle misting to refresh the plants so everything looked perky and alive for the family to enjoy.

Many gardeners call this the three‑hour rule: during the hottest months, work early in the morning to protect both yourself and your plants from intense sun, high UV rays, and heat stress. It’s a simple rhythm, but it makes all the difference for the garden and for the gardener.

The Features and Benefits of a Weatherproof Yard Flag

 

 Bring cozy ambiance and seasonal personality to your garden with durable, weatherproof yard signs that brighten any outdoor space.

There’s a certain kind of charm that only a small outdoor flag can bring to a garden. It doesn’t shout; it quietly welcomes you in. A weatherproof yard sign, especially one displayed on a sturdy ground pole, is one of the easiest ways to add personality and seasonal color to your outdoor spaces. The Easter flag in the photo captures that feeling perfectly a sweet rabbit, bright eggs, and a backdrop of tulips and daffodils that instantly says spring has arrived.

spring season bunny garden flag 

For me, these little flags are more than decorations. They add cozy ambiance to an outdoor living space the same way a lantern warms a patio table or a throw pillow softens a porch chair. They make a garden feel lived‑in and loved. And because the designs change with the seasons and holidays, they become a gentle way to mark time a cheerful bunny in spring, a patriotic theme in summer, a harvest scene in fall, a quiet winter welcome when the garden is resting.

summer sunflower garden flag template

What makes these flags so appealing is how well they’re built for real outdoor life. Most are made from durable, weather‑resistant fabrics that hold up through rain, sun, and wind. The colors stay crisp, and the fabric keeps its shape, so the artwork looks good all season long.

The pole matters just as much. A good ground pole anchors firmly into soil or mulch, keeping the flag upright even on windy days. It holds the flag straight so the design is always visible and never twisted around itself.

Their compact size makes them easy to tuck into flowerbeds, along walkways, or in quiet corners that need a little lift. They blend into the landscape without overpowering nearby plants. And once the pole is in place, swapping designs takes only seconds, letting you refresh your yard’s personality whenever the mood or season changes.

patriotic garden flag 

In the end, a weatherproof yard flag with a ground pole is a small investment that brings a surprising amount of joy. It’s a simple, charming way to celebrate the seasons, express your style, and make your garden feel more welcoming. Sometimes the smallest touches make the biggest impact.

How to Keep Coyotes Out of Your Backyard

 

Learn how to keep coyotes out of your backyard with predator‑proof coops, coyote‑resistant fencing, and simple steps to protect pets and chickens. 

If you live in a neighborhood where coyotes wander through from time to time, you already know they’re not prowling around like villains in a movie they’re just following food, water, and easy opportunities. And honestly, we make it pretty tempting for them. Between backyard chickens, outdoor dog bowls, and those cute little ponds everyone loves, our yards can look like a wildlife convenience store. Coyotes aren’t being aggressive; they’re being practical. Once you understand what draws them in, it becomes a whole lot easier to keep your pets, your chickens, and your backyard safe without feeling like you’re battling nature.

Why Urban Coyotes Show Up in Residential Backyards

Urban coyotes are incredibly adaptable. They’re most active at dawn and dusk, and they’d prefer to avoid people altogether. But they’re smart, and they remember where they found an easy meal. A chicken coop with a weak latch, a small dog left outside alone, or even a decorative pond that doubles as a watering hole  all of that is an invitation. They’re not “targeting” your home; they’re following scent trails, food sources, and water. When you remove those wildlife attractants, you dramatically reduce coyote activity around your property.

Making Chicken Coops Truly Predator‑Proof

If you keep backyard chickens, the coop is the first thing to look at. A lot of people think they have a predator‑proof chicken coop because it looks sturdy, but coyotes are problem‑solvers. They dig, they climb, and they test every weak spot. A safe coop means hardware cloth instead of chicken wire, a solid roof, and doors that actually lock. Free‑roaming chickens are basically a coyote’s version of fast food, so keeping them contained  especially during dawn and dusk makes a huge difference. When a coyote gets a chicken, it’s almost always because the coop wasn’t as secure as the owner believed.

Coyote‑Proof Fencing That Actually Works

For regular residential yards, coyote‑proof fencing can be a game‑changer. Coyotes can jump surprisingly high and they’re excellent climbers, so a standard fence won’t cut it. A seven‑foot fence with a roll bar (also called a coyote roller) on top is one of the most effective setups. The height keeps them from jumping over, and the roller prevents them from getting a grip to climb. When they try to pull themselves up, the bar spins and they slide right off.

And because coyotes are also diggers, the fence needs to go below ground ideally with a buried barrier or a cemented trench so they can’t tunnel underneath. Once it’s installed, it quietly does its job every single day without you having to think about it.

Cleaning Up the Attractants We Don’t Think About

Most people don’t realize how many little things in a yard attract wildlife. Leaving pet food outside is a big one  it’s basically a neon sign that says “free snacks.” Fallen fruit, unsecured trash cans, and even those pretty backyard ponds can draw coyotes in. Water is a huge attractant, especially during dry spells. If you have a pond or water feature, just be aware that wildlife will use it unless the yard itself is secured.

And of course, small pets should never be left outside alone, especially at night. Even a big dog can get into trouble if a coyote feels cornered or sees an opportunity. Coyotes aren’t looking for a fight, but they won’t turn down an easy meal.

Lights, Noise, and Other Backyard Coyote Deterrents

Motion‑activated lights and noise devices can help, especially in areas where coyotes regularly cut through. They’re not a magic solution, but they do make your yard less appealing. Think of them as the “annoying neighbor” of deterrents  not dangerous, just irritating enough that coyotes decide to go elsewhere. These tools work best when combined with secure fencing and

Motion-Activated Sprinklers: A Smart Deterrent (But Not for Pet Owners)

One of the most effective backyard coyote deterrents I’ve seen is the motion-activated sprinkler  the kind that blasts a strong jet of water when something moves into its sensor range. It doesn’t hurt the coyote, but it does sting enough to startle them and make them think twice about coming back. That sudden burst of water is a physical consequence, not just a flashing light or noise they can ignore.  

The ScareCrow motion-activated sprinkler, which detects movement up to 36 feet and sprays a powerful burst of water across a wide area. It’s solar-powered, easy to install, and works on coyotes, raccoons, deer, and even stray cats. If you’ve got chickens or a pond that’s attracting wildlife, this kind of sprinkler can be a great tool to discourage unwanted visitors.

That said, I wouldn’t recommend these sprinklers for people with outdoor pets. If your dog or cat sets it off, they’ll get blasted too, and that’s not exactly a fun surprise. So if you have pets that roam the yard, this might not be the best fit. But if your animals are indoors or in a secure run, and you’re trying to protect chickens or keep coyotes from sniffing around your pond, these sprinklers can be a great part of your backyard defense.

 

Working Together as a Community

Coyotes don’t care about property lines, so what your neighbors do matters just as much as what you do. If one house leaves pet food out or lets chickens free‑range, the whole block becomes more attractive to wildlife. Sharing information, encouraging proper coop construction, and reporting unusual behavior helps everyone stay safer. When a neighborhood works together, coyotes tend to move on because the easy meals disappear.

The Bottom Line

Coyotes aren’t villains they’re just part of the ecosystem. But that doesn’t mean you have to sacrifice your chickens or worry about your dogs every time they go outside. With secure fencing, a truly predator‑safe coop, and a yard that doesn’t offer food or water, you can protect your animals and still coexist with the wildlife around you. It’s all about making your property a place coyotes pass by instead of a place they settle into.

About the Author

Susan lives in a rural community where coyotes migrate through her yard daily. They come to drink from her pond and cross into the neighborhood, often unseen by most residents. Just because you don’t spot them doesn’t mean they’re not there  lurking quietly, looking for their next meal or a drink of water. Susan writes from real experience, blending practical advice with firsthand knowledge of what it’s like to share space with wildlife.

Protecting Early‑Sprouting Bulbs from Cold Weather

Bulbs sprouting early in winter? Find out whether snowdrops and naked lady flowers need protection and how a light mulch layer can prevent cold‑weather damage.

Every gardener knows that winter has a mind of its own. One week the air feels like April, and the next we’re bracing for snow. This year, my snowdrops and “naked lady” bulbs (Amaryllis belladonna) decided to peek through the soil long before spring truly arrived and with a bitter cold snap on the way, I wondered whether I needed to protect them.

If your early risers are doing the same, you’re not alone. Here’s what you need to know to keep them safe and blooming beautifully.

 

 Why Bulbs Sprout Early

Warm winter spells can trick hardy bulbs into sending up shoots ahead of schedule. The good news is that most spring bulbs are built for this. They’re adapted to unpredictable winters and can shrug off cold weather better than we expect.

But the real threat isn’t the cold itself  it’s rapid freeze–thaw cycles. When temperatures swing wildly, the soil expands and contracts, sometimes pushing bulbs upward and exposing tender growth.

 

 Snowdrops: Tougher Than They Look

Snowdrops are some of the hardiest bulbs in the garden.

• They tolerate snow, frost, and freezing temperatures.
• Even if their early shoots get nipped, the bulbs remain unharmed.
• They often bloom right through late‑winter storms.

In short: snowdrops rarely need intervention.

 

 Naked Lady Bulbs: Hardy, But Worth Protecting

Amaryllis belladonna  often called “naked ladies”  behave a little differently.

• They’re hardy in zones 7–10.
• The bulbs themselves tolerate cold, but young emerging foliage is more vulnerable to sudden temperature drops.
• A protective layer helps prevent freeze damage and soil heaving.

These bulbs store their energy deep inside, so as long as the bulb doesn’t freeze solid, they’ll bounce back and bloom later in the season.

 

Should You Add Mulch Before a Cold Snap?

Yes a light, loose mulch layer is one of the easiest ways to protect early sprouts.

Benefits of Mulching

• Insulates the soil
• Reduces freeze–thaw stress
• Helps prevent bulbs from being pushed upward
• Maintains more stable moisture levels

What to Use

• Shredded leaves
• Straw
• Fine bark
• Pine needles

Aim for 2–3 inches, keeping the mulch slightly away from the emerging shoots to prevent rot.

 

 Extra Protection for Extreme Cold

If temperatures plunge into the teens or lower, you can add a temporary cover:

• Frost cloth
• An old sheet
• A lightweight blanket

Drape it loosely over the bed overnight and remove it in the morning.

 

 Will This Affect Spring or Summer Blooms?

Most likely, no.

• Snowdrops will bloom right on schedule.
• Naked lady bulbs may look a little stressed if foliage gets frostbitten, but the blooms come from stored energy and usually remain unaffected.

A little mulch now goes a long way toward keeping everything happy until true spring arrives.  

 Final Thoughts

Early sprouts are a reassuring reminder that the garden is waking up, even when winter tries to return. With a simple layer of mulch and a watchful eye, your bulbs will weather the cold and reward you with the blooms you’ve been waiting for.

These tips come from years in the garden both my own and the ½‑acre estate I cared for professionally. I write from lived experience, season after season.

How to Build a Coyote-Proof Chicken Coop

 

If you want chickens in an area that is close to a wooded tract of land then, you need to keep them coyote-and other predator safe. Coyotes are part of our landscape especially near wooded tracts like parks or wooded tracts of land and they will take advantage of any easy meal. Free-roaming hens, unsecured coops, and flimsy fencing are open invitations.

When flocks are missing or only feathers are viewed, the blame often falls on the coyotes. But the real issue is poor preparation. Hunting coyotes doesn’t solve the problem it destabilizes populations and increases reproduction. The solution is responsible design: secure fencing, locked gates, and smart placement of the chicken coop.

A Proven Design: What Work

My niece lives just south of the city in a heavily wooded area by a park, where coyotes are frequent visitors. She used to let her chickens roam freely. No more. Now her flock is protected by a secure, well-designed enclosure that keeps coyotes out day and night.

Here’s how she built it:

• Fence height: 6-foot heavy-duty chain-link fencing surrounds the entire run.
• Trench and cement base: She dug a trench around the perimeter, buried the bottom foot of the fence, and poured concrete to prevent digging.
• Covered top: Chain-link fencing covers the top of the run, secured tightly to the side walls.
• Central coop: A sturdy wooden coop sits in the center, giving hens shelter and security.
• Locked gate: The entry gate has a padlock, and the ground beneath it is paved with concrete.
• Guardian dog: A Great Pyrenees watches over the yard, adding another layer of protection.

Her chickens are safe even in a neighborhood close to coyote territory.

 

Visual Guide: Coyote-Proof Coop Design

Click/open the card below to view the illustrated guide showing each element of a secure chicken coop from trench to top cover.

 

Step-by-Step: How to Build It

1. Choose the Location
Place your coop away from wooded tracts and overhanging trees. Coyotes prefer cover and quiet.

2. Dig a Trench
Dig a 12–18-inch trench around the perimeter of your run. This prevents coyotes from tunneling under.

3. Pour a Cement Base
Fill the trench with concrete and let it cure. This anchors the fence and blocks digging.

4. Set the Dimensions
Use 6-foot tall, heavy-gauge galvanized wire or chain-link fencing. Coyotes can climb lower fences.

5. Add a Secure Gate
Install a sturdy gate with strong hinges and a locking latch. Use concrete under the gate to block tunneling.

6. Secure the Top
Cover the top with wire fencing or chain-link and attach it tightly to the sides. Coyotes can climb if the top is open.

7. Lock Up at Night
Even with fencing, hens should be secured inside the coop at dusk.

8. Consider a Guardian Dog
Livestock guardian breeds like Great Pyrenees can deter coyotes and protect your flock.

 

Why Coyotes Target Chickens

Attractant	Risk
Free-roaming hens	Easy prey, especially at night
Open coops	No barrier to entry
Weak fencing	Coyotes can dig or climb
Outdoor pet food	Attracts rodents, which attract coyotes
Coop near wooded tract	Increases likelihood of encounters

 

Respect and Responsibility

Coyotes are not villains they’re opportunists. If food is easy to access, they’ll take it. If residents build secure coops, supervise pets, and remove attractants, coyotes will remain part of the ecosystem without becoming a threat.

Where I reside, the lesson is clear: if you want chickens, keep them coyote-safe. Don’t demand that coyotes be hunted because of poor preparation. Respect the land, respect the wildlife, and take responsibility for the animals you choose to raise.