Yard and Garden Snake Removal

Removal of snakes from your yard can be a little tricky especially if they are poisonous.  The best way to remove the snake is to make your yard uncomfortable and change its habitat. 

 

My home is located in the woods and for years, my yard was snake heaven.  The snakes resided in our rock wall, and in the garden close to the pond.  Know that I do not mind nonvenomous snakes living in my yard, but the venomous snakes must be removed.

Snake in my garden

 If you have snakes in your yard you will need to determine what kind of snake calls your yard home.  Black, garter, and non-poisonous snakes are fine they control the rodents, but if there are venomous snakes then I would recommend that you remove snakes from your property.

The best way to get rid of snakes is to manicure your yard and remove their food and water source.  

Remove ground-level fountains: Image by Sgolis

Remove woodpile as it attracts snakes: Image by Sgolis

Clean up yard and garden. Remove all clutter; leaves, woodpile, excess rock, straw, and ground-level compost.   Mow your lawn so that the grass is short, cut back brush, and weed your gardens. If possible remove all ground-level water fountains as they will attract rodents. 

Treat the manicured lawn and garden with rodent pest control. By doing this you will remove the snake forage from your yard.  Make the snakes living area uncomfortable with mothballs. 

Mothballs are toxic to other animals but when it comes to snakes they will leave the area that is treated.  The best way to remove the snakes from a rock wall area is to dig a trench that is a foot deep next to your rock wall  (see photo below of the trench that I dug)  Drop a few mothballs into the hole and backfill with the soil. Snakes that live in the rock crevices all year round will leave the area to get away from the mothballs.

The trench along the wall for mothball snake control 

Another way to control snake populations naturally is to encourage feral and stray cats to hang out in your yard.  These cats will hunt and eat the snakes.  

If you are not a cat lover you can get rid of snakes from your yard by trapping them.  The humane snake trap is made of durable plastic however it is light in weight so if you intend on trapping outdoors it is best to set it up on a calm day.  The best way to achieve positive results from the traps to watch for snakes, note their location, and then set the trap close to where you have viewed the snake.  

The trap is baited with the scent of a rodent and the interior of the trap has a glue board.  When the snake enters the trapped chamber it loses mobility and is not able to exit the trap.  

If you have land that is overpopulated by venomous snakes, you can do a controlled burn.  Contact your local fire department to schedule a burn.

Warning:

Keep kids and pets away from mothballs

 Snake removal products that I recommend: 

Humane Snake Trap

Catchmaster Glue Boards

You can find these products at Amazon.com, Walmart.com, and Lowws.com

Window Box Garden

A window box garden is a good way to improve the appearance of your home and to add curb appeal. A home that features window boxes at the entrance feels welcoming and cozy. If you have limited space in the yard a window box garden is a nice way to grow flowers and herbs. Caring for your garden is easy as many can open up the window to water their plants or harvest the herbs.

There are many window boxes to choose from; many are made of wood and some are plastic and mount to the outside of your window. Newer window boxes are resin frames that you line with moss and then fill with dirt. These moss-lined boxes are well suited for Mediterranean style homes and the wood window boxes to look good on traditional or vintage homes. Choose the window box that compliments your home.

Look for window boxes at garage sales, flea markets, antique stores and at your local garden center. If you are handy with wood and tools you can purchase plans for a window box and make one, then all you will need to purchase is the hardware to attach the box to your home. Treat the wooden box for pests. You would want to deter carpenter ants, termites, and other wood-boring pests from eating your window box. Decide if you want to finish the window box with a stain or if you want to paint the wood box. If you choose paint then seal the window box with a water repellent. This repellent will prevent the box from water damage.

Get window Box ready for planting:

Buy a plastic container to line your window box. The plastic container will hold the potting soil for your plants and it will prevent the wooden window box from deteriorating. Check the plastic container for drainage holes.  If the liner has no holes then use your drill to make holes in the bottom of the plastic liner.  The holes must be large enough to let the excess water out.

Attach the wooden window box to the outside of the window, then set the plastic container inside the wooden window box and fill with a mixture of potting soil and compost.

Choose plants for window box:

Determine your color scheme. If your home is painted with neutral exterior paint, you could choose a bright assortment of flowers for your window box. Yellow, orange, purple, pink, red, or purple flowers would compliment your homes color scheme.

Seasonal window box design tips:

Rejuvenate your window boxes for the autumn season by adding cold hardy purple pansies, yellow mums, and Baltic ivy.  You can then buy small plastic pumpkins and glue them to the end of a craft store stick (20 inches)  Insert the pumpkin head sticks into the soil and you have decorated your window box for autumn.  

Spring window boxes should be colorful and cheerful.  Plant a mixture of tulips, daffodils, grape hyacinths, and Baltic ivy along the rim.  Purchase 20-inch sticks from the craft store and small plastic spring decorations; butterfly, dragonfly, or Easter egg.  Then stick the decorated stick into the soil and you have a window box that will be well received by adults and children.

Window box image by:  Alelk Sandak, Freerangestock.com first image, 2nd image pixabay.com

Advertise Lawn and Garden Business

Advertise your lawn and garden business to get the exposure needed to attract new clients.  

A spring advertisement campaign will enable you to line up contracts for the upcoming season.  Advertisement is a great way to promote your skills and expertise to your community.  

Even if you are an established business owner, an advertisement is a nice way to remind your existing clients to contact you for upcoming jobs.  When you advertise your lawn and garden services you put yourself in front of the competition and you will have access to more contracts.

What is your Advertisement Budget?

Before you begin your advertisement campaign you need to determine your budget as you do not want to overextend yourself and then not have money to support your business needs.  

Determine your budget by listing your positive cash and then subtract your bills and all of your supplies that are needed for the upcoming season.  The money that is left over can be applied to your advertisement.  

Basic Advertisement Campaign

Start with a basic advertisement campaign such as making business cards.  Personalize your business card with business and contact information; name, phone, email, and website.  Also, add your company motto on the card.  

Give your business card to managers of garden centers, and local nurseries, and introduce yourself to local home builders.  

Here are some business card templates that you may like

Gardener Tiger Lily Floral Business Card

by Susang6

Purple Irises Flower Garden Mighty Business Card

by Susang6

Garden Services Business Card

by Susang6

Gardener Peace Lily Business Card

by Susang6

Word-of-Mouth Advertisement

Word of mouth is an effective way to gain new clients.  When a client is pleased with the service that you have rendered they will praise you to their friends and neighbors and thus you will gain new business.  

One way to exceed in word of mouth is to offer referral compensation.  This is a way to thank your client for sending you a new customer.  Award the client that has brought you new business by taking a percentage off their next garden or lawn service.  By giving referral compensation you have not only gained a new client but have also a guarantee of a repeat client contract because in order to get the percentage off they must hire you for another job. 

Another way to develop word of mouth business is to make sure that your lawn and garden is perfect at all time and then install a sign in your yard with a plastic cylinder that holds your lawn and garden service flyers.  Install your business flyer holder close to the sidewalk so that anyone walking by your yard can get a flyer.  They will see firsthand that you are skilled in your profession and will take your flyer.  Maybe they will contact you for a job or maybe they will tell a friend or co-worker about you.  The cost of this type of advertisement is minimal and the benefits are great.

Next Level Advertisement

Join local garden clubs and your local Chamber of Commerce.  Attend the monthly meetings and network your lawn and garden service  If there is a monthly newsletter where you can purchase a spot then consider advertising your lawn or garden service in the newsletter that goes out to all of the members, businesses, and alumni. 

Practice supporting other members of your club and they will support you by reciprocating.

Business Tips for Lawn and Garden Advertisement:

1. Purchase a business listing in your local yellow pages. Advertise your name, the name of your business, your motto, and contact information.  Write "learn more about (name of your business)  and direct customers to your website.
2.  Design a website that will feature photographs of your skills; specialty-designed gardens, before and after photographs, contact information, and client testimonials.

Grow Peonies in Your Garden for Fragrance, Longevity, and Springtime Color

Learn when and where to plant peonies, how deep to set the eyes, and the best care tips for strong blooms. A complete guide to growing long-lived peony shrubs.

Peonies are among the most beloved spring-flowering shrubs, treasured for their lush blooms, sweet fragrance, and remarkable longevity. A well-planted peony can thrive for up to one hundred years, returning every spring with glossy green foliage, abundant buds, and show-stopping flowers. In summer, the shrub remains attractive with deep green leaves, and by fall the foliage shifts to warm red and bronze tones, adding seasonal interest to the garden.

For many gardeners, peonies carry emotional meaning. These shrubs are often passed down through generations, divided from a grandmother or great-grandmother’s garden. Their heirloom quality makes the peony not only a beautiful plant, but a cherished family treasure.

Here are images of peonies that grow in my garden

🌸 Where Should I Plant a Peony?

Peonies prefer to be planted once and left undisturbed. They do not appreciate being moved, and if transplanted, they often refuse to bloom for two to three years. Choose your planting site with intention.

• Light: Full sun to part shade
• Soil: Well-drained soil
• Air circulation: Good airflow around the plant
• Spacing: Plant multiple peonies about three feet apart

A thoughtful planting site ensures strong root development and reliable blooms for decades.

🌸 What Season Is Best for Planting Peonies?

The best planting time depends on the type of peony you’re planting:

• Nursery-grown peony plants: Plant in spring after the danger of frost has passed.
• Peony tubers (bareroot peonies): Plant in fall, ideally from August through September.

Avoid planting tubers after late September, as they need time to establish before the first hard frost.

🌸 How to Plant Peony Flowering Shrubs

Follow these steps to plant peonies successfully:

1. Prepare the site: Remove grass, weeds, and rocks. Loosen the soil until it has a fine, crumbly texture.
2. Amend the soil: Work compost into the planting area to enrich the soil and improve drainage.
3. Dig the hole: Make it the same depth as the nursery container.
4. Add nutrients: Mix a small amount of bone meal into the bottom of the hole to support root and flower development.
5. Prepare the plant: Gently shake excess soil from the roots to encourage outward growth.
6. Plant correctly: Set the peony in the center of the hole with roots spread outward. The peony eyes must sit about two inches below the soil line. Planting deeper will result in few or no blooms.
7. Backfill and water: Cover with soil, firm gently, and water thoroughly.

🌸 How to Care for Peonies

During the first growing season, keep the soil evenly moist but never soggy. Once new growth appears, apply 2–3 inches of mulch around the plant to help retain moisture, cool the roots, and suppress weeds. Keep the bed weed-free.

After establishment, peonies become drought tolerant, but in hot summer regions, morning drip irrigation helps maintain plant health. Expect your peony to bloom in its third year, as these shrubs take time to settle in. If blooms are heavy, use a round plant support to prevent stems from bending or breaking.

• Deadhead: Cut off spent blooms after flowering.
• Fall cleanup: After a hard frost, cut stems back to about two inches above the soil.

🌸 Peony Tips

If you need to transplant your peony, timing and aftercare are important.

• Best season: Fall is the best time to transplant peonies.
• Time of day: Choose a cloudy day or transplant in the evening when the sun is not as hot.
• Watering: Water the transplant well and continue to water daily until a hard frost.
• Frost timing: Transplant about one month before a hard frost so roots can become established.
• Mulch: Apply a thin layer of mulch around the transplant, then after the hard frost cut back the stems and apply a thicker layer of mulch.

🌸 Sgolis Recommends: Favorite Peony Varieties

Here are a few beautiful peonies to consider for your garden:

• Peony ‘Sarah Bernhardt’
• Peony ‘Karl Rosenfield’
• Sea Yellow Peony

Natural Deer Repellent for Yard and Garden

Repel deer from your yard and garden naturally without harming the deer.  I reside directly next to 50 acres of dense forest and every March when the snow melts and the temperature turns warm, my spring bulbs and flowering shrubs will start to emerge. Tulips are favored by the deer and herds of deer will find their way to my yard and garden.  

Many people believe that the deer eat tulips and other spring blooming plants because they are hungry.  However deer will eat seek your tulip gardens in the early spring because the plant is a good food source and because the stem of tulip provides the deer with hydration.  Tulips are rich in calcium and bucks need the calcium for spring antler development.  The doe needs the calcium for proper development of her fawn. Tulips may provide the deer with a balanced diet however that does not mean that they are welcome in my yard and garden.

Repel Deer from Garden

One way to stop the deer from eating your tulips and other spring bulbs is to mix the bulbs with daffodils.  Deer do not like the taste or the scent of the daffodil and will avoid the garden.  

Plan a spring garden that features rows of daffodils that are in the front, side and back of the tulips. The deer will then pick up the scent of the daffodils and will avoid the tulips.

Another way to repel deer from your yard and garden is with dog hair.  Brush your dog and remove the hair from the brush.  Set the fresh dog hair in your tulip garden, or around your Azaleas, Rose, Hosta, Hibiscus and Camellias.  The scent of the dog hair will repel the deer; however you must replenish the dog hair on a regular basis as the scent will fade.

Through trial and error I developed a natural repellent that consisted of assorted hot peppers.  I slow cooked the hot peppers and when it was ready I poured the formula into a sprayer.  I applied the batch of homemade pepper formula to my gardens and flowering shrubs and I watched and waited for the deer. 

Deer did not approach my gardens that were drenched in the potent pepper formula. The nasty tasting pepper formula works however you must reapply weekly so that it stays potent and you must apply after rain, sprinkler or snow.  Moisture weakens the scent and taste. This pepper spray is good when used during a drought or when no rain in in the forecast.

 Here is the recipe for an effective deer repellant.

1/2 cup of dehydrated whole egg
1 cup jalapeno juice
1/4 cup cayenne pepper flakes
1/2 cup chopped garlic

1/2 cup chopped onions
1 quart of water

Mix ingredients in a saucepan and cook on the stove until it comes to a boil. Remove from the heat and allow the solution to cool to room temperature. Strain and then pour liquid into spray bottle. Spray the natural repellent on your tulips at dusk. For maximum strength, you will apply the solution every 2-3 days.

Other Natural Deer Repellents

Keep deer away from your plants with natural deer repellent.  Cedar creek makes a granular product that you use in your gardens.  I have a lot of deer and had tried everything to repel them; it is safe to say that I had my doubts about the product but was willing to try it.  I spread the deer repellent in my Hosta garden and I also filled 6 small bags (they come with the product).  The bags were filled with ¼ cup of the deer repellent and then I hung them throughout my yard.  Some were hung on low hanging tree branches, others on shrubs and a few on in ground stakes.  I also spread the deer repellent in my hosta gardens, rose gardens and around my tulips and hibiscus shrubs.

I like the Cedar Ridge natural deer repellent because it is easy to use and it works.  There is no need to refill the bags or reapply the solution your gardens.  Other products you have to reapply after it gets wet; rain or sprinkler. The scent is intensified when it gets wet and product is effective for up to six months.  

My neighbor told me about another natural deer product.  He used Deer Scram and it is also effective when applied around your plants and flowers.  

If you want to keep the deer out of your yard completely you would shake the Deer Scram granules along the perimeter and shake into your flower gardens and around your trees and shrubs.  Apply an ample amount of this product so that the scent provides a barricade.  Deer will avoid your yard because of the scent, they will not enter your yard to drink from your pond or nibble on your plants.  Deer scram is effective for up to 30 days, retains strength during rain and snow.  Reapply every 30 days. 

Hardwood Tree Habitat for Wildlife

Several years ago I planted habitat for wildlife.  This habitat consists of hardwood trees;  White Ash, American Beech, Paper Birch, Boxelder Maple, Black Cherry, Flowering Dogwood, Rock Elm, and I also grow nut, pear, and apple trees.  

Under the trees, I did a scatter planting of berry bushes; black, raspberry, and elderberry, these berry bushes feed birds and the forest animals.  

wildlife forage: elderberry

My tree habitat and berry-producing shrubs have grown and now my yard is attractive to wildlife. In the spring a fine crop of morel mushrooms will grow under the hardwood trees.  

The morels grow at the base of the trees, where the ground is moist and rich and the air is humid from the spring rains. 

Photo of my side yard where Oak, Maple,  Elderberry and
 flowering Dogwood trees grow 

Growing a wildlife habitat has its benefits, once it is established it is easy to maintain.  You can harvest the fruits or you can leave the entire crop as forage for the wildlife.  

Deer eat the berries and the clover that grows in my yard

I have the best of nature, edible fruits and nuts, wildlife, and succulent morel mushrooms in the spring.  If you have a small yard you can section off a sunny area and plant 2 or 3 hardwood trees or apple or cherry fruit trees, then add some berry bushes and a water fountain or bird bath By doing this you will attract birds and other wildlife to your yard.  you may have a crop of morel mushrooms in a few years. 

Note:  The best time to plant trees and shrubs is in the fall or spring.  If you are undecided on what trees to grow why not start by planting a crabapple tree.  This tree has pretty flowers in the spring followed by small apple-looking fruit in the fall.  Leave the fruit on your tree and it will provide birds and other wildlife food in winter.

Crabgrass Removal and Lawn Care

Crabgrass removal and lawn care are at the top of my to-do list. Today I went out to look at my yard and discovered patches of greenery in the lawn of brown. 

This week we had a spring-like temperature and full sun.  I suppose it was all that was needed to germinate the seeds. Crabgrass grows from a seed in spring when the weather is sunny and the temperature is in the mid-'50s to 70s. 

 I am a firm believer that crabgrass needs to be addressed as soon as you notice it growing otherwise it will take over your yard. There is only one way to remove crabgrass and that is to kill it.

Here's how I removed crabgrass from my lawn:

.I sectioned off my yard by creating lawn care jobs.  I find this is a good way to complete yard tasks without getting overwhelmed.  I highlighted the backyard as an area that would need to be thatched.  Seems the crabgrass in this section was not removed in the fall.

This section is a top priority on my list.  I plan to take advantage of Friday's forecast for 58-degree weather, by starting my lawn care projects. 

Thatching Rake

To thin out the grass I will use my thatching rake.  Thatching rakes have curved tines that enable you to clear your lawn quickly and loosen the topsoil so that it is ready for pre-emergent herbicide or grass seed.

Normally I do not use a thatching rake on the lawn in the spring because it spreads crabgrass seeds but since I intend on killing the crabgrass I feel the thatching is needed so that the chemical can reach the soil'.  I will put the thatch in lawn bags and then when this job is completed I will then let my lawn rest. 

There is a cold front coming in and they are calling for snow flurries.  The cold will kill the crabgrass.  The forecast is calling for five days of cold weather followed by spring-like temperatures.  

When the temperature reaches an average of 50 degrees I will apply the crabgrass pre-emergent herbicide. The herbicide will penetrate the soil and kill the crabgrass and other grassy weed roots. 

 It takes approximately seven days to kill the crabgrass and grassy weeds.  Then the dead crabgrass will be removed from the lawn with the thatching rake and my lawn will be crabgrass and weed-free.  

So this week I am out of the office; I am taking the time to purchase the products that I need for my lawn care. If it is warm where you reside go outside and start your to-do list for your lawn and garden care. While outside listen to the birds and breathe in the fresh air.  Now is the time to rejuvenate and get ready for the spring season.  I hope you all have a good week and if you have any garden or lawn care questions, please leave me a comment and I will get back to you.

Improve Plant Growth with Healthy Bare Root

Sorbet Peony is grown from bare root

Improve plant growth by examining the bare roots.  A healthy bare root that does not have gray mold or root breakage will grow into a strong and healthy plant, tree, or shrub.  

Many gardeners order bare-root plants and shrubs from magazines and online nurseries.  

These bare roots are plants that do not have soil surrounding them and the seller can ship them easily to the customer because the shipping is not hard on the plant, they do not require moisture, and can be packed easily in peat moss.

Every year I will start to plan my spring and summer garden and I will take advantage of the late winter sales that are offered at the online and mail-order nurseries.  

I find that these companies offer a good selection of bare-root plants and shrubs and that the prices are fair.  I like to order rose bushes, flowering shrubs, and trees. 

 Over the years I have had better luck growing bare-root plants than planting a seedling that has been packed and shipped in the mail. I think my success in growing bare-root plants is because I examine the root very carefully.

Bare root plants and shrubs are shipped when they are in a dormant state and depending on the time of the season, some of the bare roots may be wakening up and you will view new growth on the stems or branches. When you receive your bare root plants it is important that you inspect them.

Examine the root by checking for gray mold on the surface of the roots. If the mold coverage is light and does not cover the entire root then clean the mold off with a white cloth.  Dip the cloth in warm water and then gently wipe the gray mold from the roots.  (Use care to not break the roots.)   

If the mold is covering all of the roots and the roots feel soft then the plant is dead or close to being dead.

You also need to check the bare root for damage. The roots may have been damaged in shipping. Look for broken roots or bends in the root. Cut off the bend with sharp garden scissors. 

 The root will then have the energy to grow well.  Remember a healthy bare root will grow into a strong and healthy plant, tree, or shrub.

Note: If your bare root is dead, or is in poor quality, take a picture of the bare root and contact the seller. Inform them of the poor quality and offer to send a copy of the invoice and a picture of the dead root. 

 Most sellers will accommodate the customer by offering a replacement or will refund your money.