Friday, October 5, 2012

Fall Container Garden Ideas




Colorful Pansy Urn

Fall is the time when you pull out the summer annuals from your container gardens and replace the plants with colorful fall shrubs and flowers.  

September and October has been warm during the days here in the central states and my annuals are still blooming however the foliage is starting to fade due to the cooler nights.  

Today I removed the annuals from the containers and then got the containers ready for fall plantings by adding some compost.  


In the fall I like to add color and interest to my container gardens and tend to be creative by planting shrubs, pansies, grasses, ground covers, and Chrysanthemums.I also like to plant urns of purple and yellow cold hardy pansies.  Pansies are a good way to add color to your fall containers

These plants are will make a long-lasting container that will last until Thanksgiving.  If your winters are mild the container will last throughout the winter season and will make the entrance of your home feel warm and inviting.   

View this YouTube video for some creative fall container garden ideas.
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Tips:
When your Chrysanthemum blooms fade, remove the plant from the container and replace it with a new plant. By doing this you will have a continuity of color.  Plant the mum with spent blooms into your garden.

Dwarf coral red barberry will add color to your fall containers.  It is a compact mound-shaped shrub that is slow-growing. This shrub features orange flowers in the spring and ornamental bluish black fruit in the fall.

One of my favorite plants for fall containers is the caramel coral bells Heuchera. The white-pink flowers bloom on 18-inch spikes in May and June. The fall foliage of gold, orange with pink variegated is what makes this plant outstanding.  

Accent your fall containers with orange pumpkins and gourds.  Set the pumpkins around your fall container so that it is attractive to the eye.


Elephant Ear Containers look good in the fall as long as there is no hard frost.  Accent your containers with yellow Chrysanthemums.  Leave the elephant ears in the container until it is time to cut them back, dig up or bring them indoors.


Monday, September 24, 2012

Planting a Food Plot for Whitetail Deer

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Quivira-Whitetail-Buck.jpg
A food plot will provide whitetail deer with nourishment throughout the winter months.  If you reside in an area that has harsh winters then the food may not be available for the deer and a cold hardy food plot planted in the fall will provide the whitetail deer with ample food.

Every fall and spring I sow seeds into an area that is 20 feet from my home.  I plant 1000 square feet of the sweet fast-growing forage seed for the whitetail deer.  When planting seed I prefer to use seed that is easy to grow.  No-till forage of clover, brassica, and rye grass seeds that I throw and grow in a plot of land where topsoil has been slightly tilled.

Stag deer photo by Sgolis at Yard and Garden Secrets


Planting a Deer Food Plot
Choose an area that gets at 7 hours of sun.  An area that has level land is preferred but this throw and grow seed can also be planted in a rocky terrain provided there are patches of soil and ample light.  

I live in the mountains and the land has limestone rocks, the rocky terrain does not prevent me from putting down forage seed.  The seed grows well amongst the rock. Normally I choose an area that is closer to the hardwood trees.  My home resides directly next to a nature sanctuary and the land I choose is a meadow surrounded by a barrier of mature Oak and Maple trees.  The trees provide the whitetail deer with a sense of protection from predators and hunters.  You can also grow the seed in a meadow or a large field.

Getting the land ready for seed is easy, clear the land by removing the leaves weeds and cut down the grass so that it is soil level.  I like to thatch the grass to remove excess dead grass and to loosen the soil I think this step is needed because it is good for the soil to seed contact.

Prep the deer food plot before it rains.  Plant the seeds after it rains when the soil is moist.  The moist soil will help the seeds to germinate.   Watch the forage plot so that the seeds to do dry out.  If you are able to water the plot with a hose and sprinkler then you will prevent seeds from getting burned. 


Before planting the seed test the soil for lime and for fertilizer; the soil test is helpful in determining what fertilizer and how much lime is needed to grow the clover, brassica, and rye grass seed.  Plant forage seed with broadcast seeder.  If you have an ATV run it over the seedbed. Do not cover the seed with more than 3/16 of soil.   If you do not have an ATV then let the seed be, it will grow provided you keep the soil moist.

Tips:
If there are many deer foraging then reseed the area to encourage new plants.

Follow the planting instructions on your forage seed and plant in the spring and fall time zone that is appropriate for your area.

 I plant throw and grow no-till perennial deer forage plot in September.  This year my fall was dry and I needed to irrigate the food plot with water from my well.  After I planted the seed I added a light layer so straw to help keep the soil moist and to deter birds from eating the ryegrass seed.   

There are many reasons why someone would plant a food plot for deer. They may want to deter deer from eating their spring bulbs or other plants in their yard and garden, or they may want to attract deer for photographs or to enjoy nature’s beauty.  I plant a food plot to watch the whitetail deer and to supplement their diet.  Winter is harsh here in the mountains and finding food can be hard for the deer.
 



 







Sunday, August 19, 2012

Vintage Gardens of 1928 Home



spring rock garden
The gardens that are located on my property date back to 1928, they were designed by a professional gardener who built the home.  

The original garden designer landscaped the entire yard by planting flowers in several different level gardens.  

She moved the earth by hand and installed cement blocks for the steps and red brick walkways. These steps go to the upper gardens and to the lower gardens.  

Wrapped around the gardens is a privacy river rock wall with stately columns at the garden entrance. 

It took the original owner of the home many years to complete the gardens and the rock wall as all of the rocks needed to come from the creek bed.  

My elderly neighbors tell me how she brought the rocks up a steep hill from the creek by wagon and worked on the wall by hand.


Since 1928 there have been four property owners and each of the homeowners has enjoyed gardening.  All have contributed in one way or another to enhancing the beauty of the landscape.  


I moved into the home in 2004 and my contribution was designing and installing a flagstone patio and walkway, a red brick patio, a stone garden path, and capstone paths.  





New gardens; garden mint, daylily, ornamental grasses, hosta, irises, herbs, vegetables, wildlife, and a rose garden.  I planted a wildlife habitat in the side yard and there I grow wildlife forage, wildflowers, and switchgrass.   


Along with the wildlife gardens, my husband and I installed three small ponds.


I love residing in a home that has history especially when it has a lovely garden.  here are photographs of the gardens.

Spring and Summer Flower Gardens:













 















The Wildlife Habitat

Monday, August 13, 2012

Controlling Grasshoppers in the Garden


The central great plains have had extreme heat and drought this summer.  As a result, many gardens have noted that the plants, trees and ornamental shrubs are suffering.  While the lack of water has been departmental to our vegetation we also have had to deal with a large number of brown grasshoppers.  
Grass garden with assorted wildflowers

My home resides directly next to a large wildflower meadow, vast pastures and woods.   This is a natural habitat for young nymph grasshoppers.  
Wildflowers blooming in the meadow
In late spring-early summer these grasshoppers quickly devastated the meadow and the pasture before they moved into my yard.  At present we cannot walk across our yard without grasshopper jumping past us or onto us.   If you open a car door, grasshoppers will hop inside.  

What attracts the grasshopper?
Warm and dry conditions are an ideal habitat for the grasshopper.  In my area, we had a mild winter and a warm early spring followed by extreme heat and drought. Had we had a cold winter and a cool spring much of the grasshopper population would have not survived.  

What type of Damage is caused from Grasshopper Infestation
Grasshoppers are herbivores and will feed off of many garden plants.  Some grasshoppers will devour pastures and grasses including ornamental grass. Thirty pounds of grasshoppers can consume your lawn and garden within a day.  That is 10 grasshoppers per square yard.


Pest Control Tips

  1. The best method for getting rid of grasshoppers is to work your garden soil with a tiller in early spring.  Tilling will disturb the nymph eggs.  This method will cut down on grasshopper populations.
  2. Another way to get rid of the grasshopper is to clean up the vegetation in late winter. For the lawn use a thatching rake to remove all dead grass, for garden remove weeds, leaves, and debris. 
  3. Treat with insecticide in the late winter or very early spring.  I recommend spraying with pyrethrins which are formulated with Chrysanthemums or dusting with Diatomaceous Earth food grade a natural insecticide.  Either of these insecticides will get rid of aphids, beetles, webworms, grasshoppers, fleas, ticks, spiders and many other pests.
  4. Get rid of grasshoppers by attracting wildlife to your yard; birds, cats, lizards, groundhogs, and other rodents eat grasshoppers.   Release your cats into your garden and they will hunt grasshoppers.  Grasshoppers are high in protein and both cats and dogs eat them.
Learn more about Diatomaceous Earth Food Grade by viewing this video:


Community Grasshopper Pest Control
Communicate with your neighbors in treatment options and make sure everyone treats their yard and pastures with insecticide this will prevent a repeat infestation of grasshoppers.  One treatment of insecticide may not be enough to get rid of grasshoppers.  Take note of the activity in your yard and garden and address the grasshopper infestation if need be by reapplying insecticide.

Plants that Attract Beneficial Insects
Attract insects that feed off the grasshoppers.  Grow marigolds, sunflower, daisy and dill herb in areas throughout your yard.   These plants will attract robber flies.  The flies are a natural way to get rid of grasshoppers.

Tips:
  • Grasshoppers are a common insect throughout the United States. This insect is renowned for its large appetite.
  • Pray for a cool and wet spring.  This is a natural way to starve the young nymph grasshoppers.  
  • Brown grasshoppers make good bait for fishing.
Warnings:
  • Limited quantities of grasshoppers are good for the ecosystem; infestation of hundreds of grasshoppers will cause serious damage.  If you have a few grasshoppers and want to get rid of them repel them from your yard with plants.
  • If you do not act fast to control the grasshopper infestation then your yard, the garden will be damaged from this foraging insect.
  • Use food grade Diatomaceous Earth only, if the product is safe for pets then it is okay to use on your lawn or garden, as it will kill the grasshopper but will not harm your pets, children or other wildlife.