Mirabilis Jalapa Wildflower Growing Tips

The Mirabilis Jalapa is a wildflower that is commonly known as the four O’clock flower.  These flowers bloom late in the afternoon at approximately 4:00 and stay open throughout the night.  These flowers will close at dawn and will remain closed during the day, except on cloudy days.  

I grow four O'clock flowers and look forward to them blooming because they attract hummingbirds and also because of their fragrance.  I planted the magenta color close to my patio and the bi-color yellow grows close to the garden path.  I have also planted yellow mixed with the magnet in a large pot and set it on my patio. 

Photographs of my four O'clock flower gardens: 

Growing tips:

 Plant the seeds indoors 8-10 weeks prior to the last spring frost. Purchase seed starter kits at your local garden center. Fill the planters with soil. Then dig a hole that is ½-inch deep in the center of the pot. Use the eraser end of a pencil to form the hole. Place the black seed in the center and cover with soil. Water well.  Germination takes 8-12 days.  Transplant outdoors after the threat of spring frost has past.  Or you can sow the seeds directly into the garden bed. It is best to plant when the soil has warmed to 65 - 75F; germination is usually in 14 days. 

Grow Four O’clocks in full sun to part shade to shade in the afternoon when the sun is the hottest.  If your summers are extremely hot (95 to 105 F) then the four O’clock will benefit from part shade in the peak heat of the day.   Plant in well-drained soil, okay to grow in poor soil.  The plant will flourish if you amend the soil with compost or manure.  Space plants two feet apart. Keep the soil evenly moist until the plant fills out and gets a bushy appearance.  Then water as needed.  I generally water every morning with a soaking hose. The slow drip at the soil line is a good way to provide roots with hydration.

I grow magenta, white, yellow and pink four O’clock flowers as a backdrop to my stone patio.  These perennial flowers return every year due to our mild winters here in zone 7.  Both my husband and I enjoy sitting outdoors on a summer night especially when the air is perfumed by the four O’clock flowers.  What I like about this plant is that they are a large bushy with many branches.  When mature the plant will grows to almost four feet in height with a similar spread. I also enjoy the many blooms that come again throughout the late summer and fall season. When the days turn cooler the four-o’clock will stop blooming and will go to seed.

Tips:

Four O’clock plants are native to North and South America.  In South America, they are called the Marvel of Peru.

Four O'clocks are perennials in zones 8 to 11.  They may be grown as an annual in other growing regions.

  

Mature four O’clock plant have large tuber roots.  Divide and transplant the tubers every 3 to 4 years in the spring.  
  
Collect seeds in the fall and keep them in a labeled envelope.  Use these seeds for spring planting. Caution: do not eat the seeds; they are poisonous.

Cover Ground with Vinca Minor

Vinca Minor is an evergreen trailing ground cover that will add eye-appealing color to those shady spots in your yard where nothing else grows. You may be familiar with this pretty evergreen ground cover that blooms in spring, as it also goes by the name as lesser periwinkle or creeping myrtle.   

Vinca benefits the gardener who needs to cover the ground with eye-appealing green color.   I grow vinca minor under shrubs or on my shady slope.   This plant will cover bare spots very quickly by forming a dense mat. 

My husband likes it growing on the rocky slope because he no longer has to mow and I do not have to weed the vinca minor garden as it chokes out weeds.  I also grow vinca up against my rock wall.  In this section of my yard, I planted daffodil bulbs, and in the spring when the flowers bloom the purple blooms of vinca look beautiful at the base of the daffodils. Here are my photographs of Vinca Minor that grow in my gardens.

Growing tips for Vinca Minor

Plant the vinca minor ground cover in the spring after the danger of frost has passed. Purchase plants or bare roots. Soak the bare root in a pan of tepid water for one hour before planting. The water is useful in hydrating the roots.  Vinca minor will grow very well r in part shade to full shade.  A garden site where the soil is moist and well-drained is preferred however mature plants will tolerate some drought as long as they are not growing in direct sun.  Plant the vinca close to your foundation, in rock gardens, raised planters, and under shrubs and shade trees.

Clear the garden site of grass, weeds. Loosen the soil to 8 inches and break up the clumps so that the texture is fine.  If your soil is poor then mix equal parts compost with your soil. Wet the garden site so that the soil is moist but not wet.  Dig holes that are the same size as the nursery container. For bare roots, dig a hole that is deep and wide enough to accommodate the roots. To allow for growth space eighteen inches apart.

Care for the ground cover by watering in the morning. Fertilize in early spring before the flowers bloom.
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Tips & Warnings

• Good plant for erosion control.
• Fully grown plants are six inches in height.
• Vinca grows in thick. It will choke out plants and weeds.
• Vinca minor can become invasive. Divide and transplant in spring
• Vinca is deer resistant.
• Grows well in USDA growing zones 3 to 8
• Vinca is native to central and southern Europe. 

Growing Herbs - Basil

 Basil is a culinary herb that is a main ingredient for many recipes. When you add fresh  basil leaves to soups, sauces and entrees the flavor of the food will be heightened.  The foods that are prepared with basil herb are always well received by family and friends as they are delicious. If you enjoy cooking then I would recommend that you grow basil in your herb garden.

Aromatic and Delicious African Blue Basil

Grow basil from seed by starting the seeds indoors, planting in a grow kit, and set by a sunny southern exposure window.  Keep the seedlings soil evenly moist but not wet.  Transplant after the threat of spring frost has passed.  Plant the basil in a sunny location that has well-drained soil.  Water lightly in the morning until the plants are mature, then you would water as needed.  A mature basil plant is approximately two feet in height with a similar spread. 

The leaves of the basil are green and highly aromatic.  This herb produces a flower that blooms mid to late summer.  The flowers attract bees and butterflies.  If your summers are hot then grow basil as they flourish in hot humid climates.  

I grow Thai, cinnamon, and African blue basil in various sized containers and decorative pots and also in my rock garden. In the summer, I display the basil in containers on my patio and along my walkways. The aromatic scent of the basil plants is refreshing and repels many flying insects including mosquitoes. It is nice to enjoy the fragrant basil while sitting on the patio.

  
Tips
In the winter, I bring my basil herb containers into my kitchen or into the greenhouse and set them by a sunny southern exposure window.  

In January when the winter days are long and dark we will set the basil under a grow light.  Basil likes it hot so we set the plant container in the center and set the other herbs on the sides or behind the basil.

If you enjoy cooking with fresh herbs then harvest the basil leaves before the flowers bloom. My husband enjoys cooking he will not permit some basil plants to flower because the leaves have a stronger taste after the plant blooms.  

It is best to grow many basil plants so you can enjoy the fragrance and the flavor.

When you add basil to your kitchen herb garden, the plant's aromatic properties add a fresh scent to your home.

 

Growing Tips for Switchgrass

Switchgrass is a prairie grass that grows naturally in the central plains in the US.  This native grass provides many animals with forage and shelter.  You can grow switchgrass in masses or grow switchgrass as an accent plant by planting 10 to 12 seeds together.

Switchgrass "Trailblazer"Panicum Seeds Drought tolerant. Very hardy.

My prairie, phlox, and switchgrass

My home is located in the central states and prairie grass is abundant in large open spaces; fields, meadows, and pastures.  I like the movement of prairie grass and that it provides forage and shelter for wildlife.  A few years ago my husband and I decided to plant upland switchgrass seeds on the hilly and rocky land on the side of our home. 

The fully-grown grass attracted wild turkeys, pheasants, rabbits, foxes, and whitetail deer. Growing prairie grass has provided us with a natural way to relax.  We enjoy sitting on the deck and looking at the native grass and the wildlife. 

Choosing Prairie Grass Seed

Choose the grass seed that meets your needs do this by determining your soil type.  For heavy soil, or soil that is found in bottomland sites, you would choose a lowland switchgrass seed. This seed will grow up to 12 feet in height.  If you reside in a mountain region or hilly terrain or if your land has rocks then choose the upland seed.  The upland switchgrass will grow to a height of six feet.

Ornamental native switchgrass seeds that I recommend:

Where to Plant Grass

Choose a planting area that has well-drained soil and full sun.  

How to Plant Native Grass

Get the growing site ready for spring planting by mowing the area to the height of two inches in late fall.  

In early spring break up the soil with a tiller. Then follow the tiller with a cultivator to break up the soil clumps and then go over the soil with a lawn roller to smooth and firm the soil before planting the grass seeds.

Planting Grass Seeds

Plan to plant grass seeds when rain is in the forecast. Sow the seeds with the broadcaster and follow the broadcaster with a ½ inch layer of topsoil.

Prairie grass will germinate in 14 days and will be fully grown in 60 days.

Care for Grass

Grass will grow well if the annual rainfall is an average of 20 inches. If you have a heat wave or dry spell it is best to water the grass. 

Tips:

Switchgrass is resistant to erosion, pests, disease, drought, and pollution. It is also drought-tolerant and very hardy.

Harvest the grass after a hard frost when the crop has died back.

Switchgrass can be processed into a liquid and then used for clean energy biofuel. 

Grow switchgrass to clean the air. This grass is a natural way to remove carbon dioxide.

Sage Container Gardening

Grow a sage container garden for your culinary kitchen or outdoor garden.  This easy container garden will add color and interest to your living space.  The foliage of the sage is attractive as the leaves vary in color. Some sage leaves are green with touches of yellow, others are purple with touches of gray, and some are a rich shade of green that compliments both purple and yellow.  The sage herb is easy to grow provided it has direct light and dry heat.  

This year I am growing Honeydew Melon sage.  It has dark green leaves with red flowers in the summer.  The flowers have a fruity fragrance that attracts butterflies to my garden.   We use sprigs of honey melon sage to garnish our summer beverages; lemonade and sweet tea. The honey melon sage is a delicious herb and would be a good choice for a butterfly garden or sensory garden.

Instructions for growing a sage container herb garden.

Step 1:      Gather what you need to grow a sage container garden.  Various sizes in containers, potting soil, compost, a bag of rocks, fertilizer, an assortment of nursery-grown sage plants, grass clippings, garden gloves, garden tools, and a hose.
Step 2:     Plan your sage arrangement for your containers.  You may want to display the various container sizes in groups on a sunny section of your patio, or in your garden.  Decide which sage plants work with your color scheme..
Step 3:       Prepare containers for planting.   Turn the container over and look for adequate drainage.  Add a layer of small rocks to the bottom of the container.  These rocks will aid in water drainage.  Fill the containers with moist all-purpose potting soil mixed with compost.
Step 4:        Dig a hole in the center of the container that is the same depth and width as the nursery container.  Remove the sage from the nursery container.  Use your hands to untangle the roots.  Gently pull the roots away from the root ball.  Set the sage in the center of the hole.  Place the roots on the soil to encourage them to grow outward.  Fill the hole with soil and water well.

Tips:
Plant sage herb outside after the danger of spring frost has passed. Water as needed, a sage plant requires evenly moist soil until the plants are established. In late spring when the ground has warmed to 70 degrees, apply a mulch of grass clippings around the sage plants.

Redbud Tree – Accent Tree for Landscape

The deciduous leaves of the redbud tree are reddish purple in the spring and then turn dark green in summer followed by yellow in the fall.  The striking leaves and showy spring flowers that bloom in April to May make the this tree a accent for your landscape.  

Redbud Missouri Postcard by Susang6

I do not grow the red redbud tree in my yard, however I have planted a few for my clients and I view the  redbuds growing wild in the woods by my home.  I find it best to grow the tree in morning sun and part shade in the afternoon.   Grow these trees in zones 4 to 9.  

The eastern redbud is renowned for its upright growing habits as well as the dark trunk, and spreading branches and lovely spring flowers. The growth rate is slow. I planted a two foot tree for one of my clients 10 years ago.  The tree at 10 years old was 6 feet in height with a similar spread.

Where to Plant Redbud Tree

Before you plant a tree determine the growing site. Consider planting the redbud tree in front of a picture window or close to your home entrance.  Choose a planting site which allow the tree to accent your landscape.

Buying tips

Buy a tree that has some height.  If you can buy a four foot tree then do so as it will produce flowers the following season. Purchase a redbud trees in a natural burlap root ball covering or container.  

How to transplant a tree 

Transplant the redbud in early spring as soon as the soil is workable.  Gently remove the tree from the nursery container. The best way to loosen the tree in the container is to set the container on its side and roll it gently back and forth. This will loosen the soil on the sides of the container and will enable you to pull the tree out.  If the tree is wrapped in burlap; ask if burlap is 100% natural. A natural burlap wrapping can be planted with the tree, however a wax coated burlap casing must be removed as the roots cannot grow through the wax.  If the burlap is natural casings then cut the burlap away from the tree trunk and fold the burlap back. 

Transplant the redbud tree into a hole that is twice the size of the container.  Remove the dirt from the hole and put in a wheelbarrow.  Break up the clumps of dirt so that it is a fine texture.  Mix compost with the dirt and then add enough dirt to the hole to form a small mound in the center.  Set the root ball in the center of the dirt mound and back fill the soil to 10 inches.  Add an organic root simulator. Dilute solution according to the instruction on the package.  Back fill the remaining dirt. 

Firm the dirt around the tree trunk and press on the dirt to remove air pockets.  Water the tree well. 

Care for Tree

Care for your newly transplanted redbud tree by applying 3 inches of mulch around the trunk or wrap the trunk with a mulch ring. Also tape the trunk to protect it from insects and husbands with weed whackers, trimmers or lawn mowers.  Keep the soil evenly moist but not wet throughout the growing season; spring until a hard frost.

Fertilize the redbud tree every other spring. Continue to keep the soil evenly moist for two years after transplant. Deep watering once a week will encourage a deep root.

Consider pruning the tree in late winter to keep a formal shape.

Tips:

Eastern Redbud is formally known as “Cercis Canadensis” and is a large shrub or small tree that is native to eastern North America to Southern Ontario Canada.

The nectar rich flowers attract honey bees and carpenter bees. Some redbud trees bear fruit in late summer.  The fruit looks like a flat brown pea sized pod. Harvest seeds from the pod or leave the pod on the tree for birds to forage.  The eastern redbud tree is a good choice for a backyard bird habitat.

Nanking Cherry Bush Information

Nanking cherries grow on a bush rather than a tree and these fruit bearing bushes produce a tremendous crop of tart berries for jams, wine and some people make pies, but I have never tried. If you prefer to not use the berries for food consumption then leave on the bush and feed the wildlife.

The Nanking cherry (Prunus Tomentosa) is a moderate to fast growing bush that is native to China and to Japan.  The Cherries are edible for human consumption and will attract birds, deer and other wildlife to your yard.   

Two years ago I bought 3 18-24 inch Nanking Cherry bushes from Gurneys.com and planted them in full sun with well drained soil.  

I fertilized the bushes with Spray n' Grow and by the end of first growing season my Nanking cherry bush had doubled in size. 

 This year my cherry bush was covered with pale pink spring flowers and by the end of June the bush was covered with berries.  

These berries ripened to a bright red color and I harvested 1 quart of cherries for recipes and left the remaining berries on the bush for the birds.

In the fall the leaves turn a lovely shade of gold which makes the nanking a lovely accent bush. 

Growing Nanking Cherry

 If you reside in growing zones 2-8 you can grow Nanking Cherries.  Plant two or more cherry bushes and you will get a large yield of berries. 

Fully grow bushes are 6-8 feet high and will yield a crop of 2-4 quarts of cherries.  If growing more than one bush; plant 8 feet apart.

Plant in spring after the threat of frost has past. Grow Nanking cherry bushes in a sunny area of your yard.  Cherries do not grow well in wet areas so choose soil that is well drained.  

Dig a hole that is the same depth and width as the nursery pot.  Add time released fertilizer into the hole and mix with soil.  Set the cherry bush in the center of the hole and back fill the soil.  Apply two inches of mulch around the stem.  This mulch will help in deterring weed or grass growth.  Water newly planted bush so that soil is moist but not wet.

Notes:

 Nanking cherries are self pollinating so if you have a small yard you may grow one bush and harvest an average of 2-4 quarts of cherries.

Defensive Garden Wear: Protect Yourself from Pests

Every gardener knows that beauty comes with a few hazards. Whether it’s blazing sun, biting insects, or hidden snakes under the brush, outdoor work demands smart protection. Dressing defensively isn’t just about comfort it’s about safety. The right clothing and gear can prevent tick bites, mosquito stings, and even encounters with brown recluse spiders or snakes. Over the years, I’ve learned that what you wear in the garden can make all the difference between a peaceful day and a painful one.

🌿 Why Defensive Dressing Matters

No matter the season, gardeners face exposure to weather extremes and pests. During yard cleanups, brush removal, or leaf raking, you’re entering the habitat of ticks, chiggers, fleas, and spiders. These pests thrive in damp, shaded areas exactly where leaves and debris collect. Dressing defensively creates a physical barrier between you and the insects waiting to hitch a ride.

👕 What to Wear for Yard and Garden Work

For heavy-duty yard makeovers or overgrown garden cleanups, I rely on a combination of breathable, protective clothing:

• Long-sleeve shirts: I wear a Columbia Omni-Shade shirt for ultraviolet protection. It reflects sunlight and wicks moisture away from my skin, making me less attractive to ticks, which seek warm, moist areas like behind the knees or underarms.
• Light-colored fabrics: White and pale pastels are best they reflect heat and make it easy to spot insects crawling on you.
• Long pants: Tuck your shirt into your pants and secure the pant legs tightly around your boots. This prevents ticks and spiders from crawling upward.
• Rubber boots: Mid-calf or knee-high boots protect against snakes, fleas, and biting insects hiding in tall grass or mulch.

🧢 Head and Face Protection

A wide-brim, sun-reflective hat is essential. It shields your face from UV rays and helps keep ticks out of your hair. When trimming shrubs or working under trees, spray your hat with insect repellent such as Deep Woods Off or another DEET-based formula. This simple step prevents ticks from dropping onto your head when you brush against foliage.

🦟 Pre-Treatment and Pest Prevention

Before dressing, I spray my clothing including socks and undergarments with insect repellent. I also treat my boots to keep pests from crawling up. For extra protection, I treat my yard and garden with diatomaceous earth food grade several days before working outdoors. This natural powder kills ticks, fleas, and spiders without chemicals. Wait about four days after application for pests to die off before starting your yard work.

💡 Smart Safety Tips

• Check yourself often: During long garden sessions, inspect your arms, legs, and hair for ticks or insects.
• Wash garden clothes separately: After yard work, wash your clothing in hot water to remove any pests or pesticide residue.
• Keep repellent handy: Reapply insect spray every few hours, especially if you’re sweating or working in dense brush.
• Stay hydrated and shaded: Defensive dressing protects you from pests, but don’t forget to protect yourself from heat exhaustion take breaks and drink water.

🌸 Notes from Susang6

This year, pests have been especially bad likely due to a mild winter and a warm, damp spring. I’ve seen more brown recluse spiders, fleas, ticks, and even snakes than usual. Since late March, I’ve worn rubber garden boots daily and treated my yard regularly with diatomaceous earth. It’s a simple routine that keeps me safe and lets me enjoy my garden without worry.

Diatomaceous Earth: Natural Pest Control Guide

I’ve used diatomaceous earth food grade for years in my garden and around my home it’s one of my favorite natural pest control solutions. This fine white powder is safe for pets, people, and wildlife, yet it effectively eliminates fleas, ticks, spiders, mites, lice, webworms, bed bugs, cockroaches, aphids, and even powdery mildew. If you’re looking for a chemical‑free way to protect your garden and home, this guide explains how I use it and where to buy trusted brands.

🌿 What Is Diatomaceous Earth?

Diatomaceous earth (DE) is made from fossilized skeletons of tiny aquatic organisms called diatoms. These microscopic shells are ground into a powder with razor‑sharp edges that kill insects by physical contact not chemicals. When pests crawl through DE, it damages their exoskeletons and dehydrates them. Because it works mechanically, it’s safe for humans, pets, and beneficial wildlife.

🏡 How I Use Diatomaceous Earth in My Garden

For natural pest control, I apply food‑grade diatomaceous earth with a duster. I lightly cover my entire yard and garden beds, focusing on areas where insects hide under leaves, around plant bases, and near mulch. You can also mix DE directly into the soil for long‑term protection.

I only use 100 percent pure, additive‑free food‑grade DE because it’s safe for wildlife, humans, and pets. A little goes a long way, and I reapply every 4–6 weeks, especially after rain or when deer, raccoons, or other wildlife visit the garden.

🐾 Using Diatomaceous Earth for Pets

You can mix DE with pet food to help control internal parasites like hookworms, or sprinkle it lightly onto your pet’s fur to kill fleas, ticks, mites, and lice. Always use food‑grade DE labeled pet‑safe and avoid inhaling the dust—wear a ventilator mask when applying.

🛒 Where to Buy Diatomaceous Earth Food Grade

When shopping online, look for packaging that says “pet and people safe.” I’ve purchased Lumino Home Diatomaceous Earth – Food Grade from Walmart.com; it’s sold in an airtight jar, which helps preserve freshness. You can also find Perma Guard Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth on eBay and Nature’s Wisdom Food Grade DE on Amazon. I bought a 3‑pound container and found that a little bit goes a long way for treating home and garden pests.

💡 Tips for Safe and Effective Use

1. Use a duster or shaker container for even coverage.
2. Apply DE on dry days moisture reduces effectiveness.
3. Reapply every few weeks or after heavy rain.
4. Store DE in an airtight jar to keep it dry and potent.
5. Always choose organic, food‑grade, or pet‑safe formulas.

🌸 Final Thoughts

Diatomaceous earth food grade is one of the simplest, most effective ways to keep your home and garden pest‑free without chemicals. It’s safe, affordable, and versatile perfect for gardeners who care about protecting pollinators, pets, and the environment. Once you start using DE, you’ll wonder how you ever managed pest control without it.

Growing Orange Tiger Lily Flowers

The oriental orange tiger lily will add color and interest to your mid-summer flower garden.  This showy flower with its dark brown speckled petals that curl downward when fully bloomed can be grown in the ground or in a container.

Tiger Lily (Lilium tigrinum) grows in my yard.  I did not initially plant the bulbs as they were planted by previous owners.  I suspect that the tiger lilies were planted by the original owner a master gardener.  

The tiger lily flower bulbs are planted in groupings of 12.  They all grow together and when the lily stems emerge in late spring they will grow 30-48 inches in height.   The tiger lilies when fully grown look like shrubs as they are tall and the foliage is full.  They are a focal point in my landscape.  When the tiger lily flowers bloom; in June and July, the orange flowers with the dark brown specks face the ground rather than up toward the sun. There are approximately 12 blooms for each stem and they continue to bloom for several weeks.

Growing Tips for Tiger Lily Flowers

Choose a planting site where the soil moisture is average and well-drained.  The tiger lily will tolerate loamy soils also. 

The sun requirement is full sun however if you reside in an area that has hot summers then it is best to provide the tiger lily with part sun to shade in the hottest part of the day. My summers are extremely hot and the tiger lily grows best with afternoon part shade to shade in the peak heat of the day as it prevents the plant from wilting.

Grow in zone Zones 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9

Get Your Garden Ready for Planting

Ready the garden site for the tiger lilies by removing the sod and then loosening the soil to 8 inches. Use your hands to break up the soil clumps. If you are planting more than one tiger lily you would dig a hole that is six inches deep with a space of 9 inches apart.  Mix the soil with compost or manure and add some bone meal to the hole and then plant the bulb.  Cover with soil and water well.

Caring for Tiger Lilies

Like the clematis the tiger lily likes its roots shaded so it is best to apply organic mulch around the stems Three inches of mulch will keep the roots cool.  

Another way to provide shade to the tiger lily roots is to plant other perennials.  These plants will provide the shade that is needed. In contrast, you may want to grow purple verbena.  The purple flower of the verbena would be a nice contrast to the orange tiger lily.  The verbena has a spreading growth habit and it would provide shade for the tiger lily roots.

Cut off spent blooms to encourage repeat blooms. Leave the leaves on the stems and do not cut back the foliage until after a hard frost.  The leaves gather nutrition and nourish the bulb for the following season's blooms.

Other Tips

Tiger lilies do not make good flowers for cutting.  The stems break easily and the flower is hard to arrange in a vase.

Hummingbirds and butterflies are attracted to the tiger lily flowers.

When shopping for tiger lily bulbs look for them in spring, if you watch the garden store circulars you may be able to get a coupon for a sale price.   Tiger Lilies look best when you grow them in a group; 10 or 12 tiger lilies will accent your landscape.

Love Oriental Orange Tiger Lily Flowers see more by viewing this YouTube video.  

Negotiating Contract for Yard Clean-up

Image credit

Today I met with a client and surveyed the property.  In a word, it was a real mess.  They had not addressed the removal of the fall leaves, nor did they clean up the gardens or prune any of the dead branches from the trees.  The lawn was all weeds except for an assortment of naturalized spring bulbs.  


To say the least I was rather overwhelmed looking at the property of 72 x 167, a large yard that needed to be cleaned up and then manicured. 

I needed the work, but this contract would require me to hire a lawn service and gardener. So I quoted a high estimate and the client wanted to negotiate at 50% less than my asking estimate. I was their 15^Th gardener that had submitted a bid for the job.  I gave the client my business card and told him if he changed his mind or if he had any questions to call me.  I declined the job.  

Had I been hired I would have manicured the gardens as shown in the images below. I always have photographs of my work in my portfolio.  Many times the before and after images will get me hired for the garden job

The only reason the job was available was that the property was overgrown and every inch of it needed to be addressed and the client wanted cheap help. I figured it would take 40 hours to get it manicured before I could concentrate on early spring containers and feature gardens and felt my estimate was fair.  

This evening at 7:00 I got a callback and we agreed upon 15% less than my original estimate. 

When it comes to an entire yard clean-up a gardener must look at the entire property and determine if it can be completed by one person or if it is better to hire workers. For this property and the time frame that the client wants all work completed, I hired a college student that does lawn service and a gardener to help with weeding.  By hiring students I will save on labor costs, however, I will need to oversee the work on a daily basis. 

Even though I accepted the job for less than my asking estimate I am glad that I was able to negotiate a fair gardening contract as it is better to have jobs lined up rather than having nothing on the books.