Showing posts with label how to. Show all posts
Showing posts with label how to. Show all posts

Wednesday, April 1, 2026

How to Build a Raised Garden Bed with Natural Rock (DIY Guide)

 


Learn how to build a raised garden bed using natural rock perfect for herbs and leafy greens in rocky soil.

Disclaimer: Susang6 is a professional gardener with lived experience since 1999. This article reflects real-world trial and error not generic advice.

Turning Rocky Soil into a Garden Sanctuary

Where I reside, the soil is rocky and when my husband and I were excavating our yard and garden, we discovered large rocks. Since we’re not the type of people who think a rock pile is visually appealing, we used the stones to create a variety of raised garden beds.



Unlike stone pavers, these rocks had irregular shapes and sizes, which made holding the soil in place and preventing erosion a challenge. Nonetheless, I set out to build a raised garden bed where I could grow green leafy vegetables and herbs.

Here are photos of my rock raised gardens.  All were created from river rock that we found in our yard. 





Creating the Rock Garden Raised Bed

Step 1: Remove the Grass
Use a string trimmer to cut grass to the soil line. Then shovel out the remaining grass and roots.
Step 2: Excavate the Bed
Use a tiller to loosen the soil, then remove it with a shovel and wheelbarrow. This soil will be repurposed elsewhere.
Step 3: Level the Trench
Dig 12 inches deep. Remove rocks and level the base with a slight slope for drainage.
Step 4: Lay the First Rock Layer
Set the first row of rocks to form the bed’s perimeter. Use mortar to secure them and prevent soil erosion.
Step 5: Add Sand and Landscape Fabric
Spread a thin layer of sand under landscape fabric. This stabilizes the base, improves drainage, and protects the fabric.
Step 6: Add River Rock for Drainage
Place 2 inches of river rock on top of the fabric. This helps water flow and keeps soil from compacting.
Step 7: Build the Outer Wall
Add another layer of rock. Fit pieces tightly, fill gaps with smaller stones, and seal with mortar. Stop when the wall reaches your desired height.
Step 8: Fill with Amended Soil
Mix potting soil, compost, topsoil, or manure in a wheelbarrow. Fill the bed to 1 inch below the top of the rock wall.
Step 9: Water and Settle
Water thoroughly to help the soil settle. Let it rest before planting.
Step 10: Plant Your Garden
Choose shallow-root herbs, flowers, or leafy vegetables. These thrive in raised beds with good drainage.

Footnote

This method reflects my personal experience building raised beds in rocky Missouri soil. It’s not a one-size-fits-all solution, but it’s a proven approach for gardeners who want to work with what they have and create something beautiful.

Learn more about raised garden beds by reading my articles in this series 

How to Keep Your Raised Garden Bed Hydrated


Beginner-friendly guide to raised bed hydration using mulch, soaker hose, and timer—grow lush vegetables with slow drip irrigation and smart watering setup.

Over the years, I’ve had many raised garden beds metal, wood, river rock, and paver-built and they all share one universal truth: raised beds dry out quickly. No matter the material, the structure, or the size, every raised bed loses moisture faster than in-ground gardens because there is nothing in the filler layers to hold water for long periods.

Through trial, error, and many hot Missouri summers, I’ve learned exactly how to keep raised beds hydrated without spending hours hand-watering. This guide walks you through the methods that actually work, especially in extreme heat.

early morning hydration with soaking hose, Watering raised garden bed


ðŸŒŋ Why Raised Beds Dry Out So Quickly

Raised beds warm up faster, drain faster, and lose moisture faster than in-ground gardens. Even with rich soil, compost, and organic matter, the elevated structure allows heat and airflow to pull moisture from the soil throughout the day.

Mulch helps—but it is not enough in summer heat.

A 2-inch layer of organic mulch is essential for moisture retention, but during extreme heat (especially heat index 105–110°F), mulch alone cannot keep plants hydrated.

💧 My Watering Routine for Extreme Summer Heat

I used to get up at dawn to water at the soil line (never overhead), but it took too much time. Eventually, I switched to a slow-drip irrigation system using a soaking hose placed underneath the mulch and arranged in narrow rows for even hydration.

To save time and ensure consistency, I added a timer. My system runs:

  • 5:30 AM – 6:30 AM (one full hour)
  • Slow drip thoroughly soaks the soil
  • Plants stay hydrated through the heat of the day

On extremely hot days (heat index 110°F), I check the top 2 inches of soil around 5 PM. If it is dry to the touch, I lightly mist the bed—never soaking—just enough to relieve heat stress before dusk.

ðŸŒĪ️ How Often Should You Water?

Watering frequency depends on your climate:

  • Extreme heat (100°F+): Daily slow-drip irrigation
  • Average summer temperatures: 3–4 times per week
  • Newly planted beds: More frequent hydration until roots establish

If your plant leaves begin to wilt, curl, or droop, it’s a sign they are either overheated or under-watered. In raised beds, wilting often means the soil has dried out faster than expected.

ðŸ’Ķ Why Slow-Drip Irrigation Works Best

A soaking hose or drip line delivers water directly to the root zone, preventing evaporation and reducing water waste. It also saves time no more standing with a hose at dawn.

I purchased my slow-drip irrigation hose at Lowe’s, but they are widely available at most garden centers and online retailers.

📊 Visual Diagram: How a Soaker Hose System Works in a Raised Bed

This diagram shows the correct setup for keeping a raised garden bed hydrated using a slow-drip soaking hose system.

DIAGRAM PLACEHOLDER
• Soaker hose placed under the mulch
• Garden hose connected to the soaker hose
• Timer attached to the outdoor spigot
• Water flows slowly through the porous hose to hydrate the root zone

🛒 Where to Buy Drip Irrigation / Soaker Hoses (Worldwide)

Below is a global list of retailers that carry soaker hoses, plus the additional items your raised bed will need: a standard garden hose for connection and an optional watering timer.

Store / Region Product Type What It Looks Like Approx. Cost Notes
Lowe’s (USA) Soaker hose, garden hose, timers Black porous hose that “sweats” water along its length Soaker: $18–$35
Garden hose: $15–$40
Timer: $20–$45
Reliable quality; great for raised beds
Home Depot (USA/Canada) Soaker hoses, drip kits, timers Flat or round porous hose Soaker: $15–$40
Garden hose: $12–$35
Timer: $20–$50
Often carries multi‑bed irrigation kits
Walmart (USA/Canada) Budget soaker hoses Black porous rubber hose Soaker: $10–$25
Garden hose: $10–$20
Timer: $15–$30
Affordable; quality varies
Amazon (Worldwide) All types of soaker hoses Round or flat porous hose Soaker: $12–$45
Garden hose: $10–$30
Timer: $15–$50
Largest selection; ships globally
B&Q (United Kingdom) Porous pipe / soaker hose Black porous pipe labeled “Porous Hose” Soaker: £10–£25
Garden hose: £8–£20
Timer: £15–£35
Common in U.K. raised bed setups
HOZELOCK (UK/EU) Micro‑porous hose systems Fine‑pore black hose with yellow fittings Soaker: £20–£40
Garden hose: £10–£25
Timer: £25–£60
High‑quality European irrigation brand
Bunnings Warehouse (Australia) Soaker hoses, dripline, timers Flat or round porous hose Soaker: AUD $12–$30
Garden hose: AUD $10–$25
Timer: AUD $20–$45
Most popular garden supplier in Australia
Canadian Tire (Canada) Soaker hoses, garden hoses, timers Black porous hose Soaker: CAD $12–$35
Garden hose: CAD $15–$30
Timer: CAD $20–$45
Good mid‑range options
Castorama (France / EU) Porous irrigation hose Black porous pipe Soaker: €10–€25
Garden hose: €8–€20
Timer: €15–€35
Reliable European home improvement chain
Alibaba (Worldwide) Bulk soaker hoses Rubber or PVC porous hose Soaker: $0.50–$8 per meter (bulk) Best for large gardens or community beds

Note: A complete raised bed hydration setup requires:
• 1 soaker hose (porous irrigation hose)
• 1 standard garden hose (to connect to your spigot)
• Optional: 1 watering timer for automatic morning hydration

Footnote

Watering needs vary by climate, soil composition, and plant type. Always adjust your schedule based on weather conditions and soil moisture levels. If you have questions, feel free to leave a comment below I’m always happy to help fellow gardeners.

Disclaimer

This article was written by Susang6, a professional gardener who teaches real-life, trial-and-error techniques in yard and garden care. All guidance is based on personal experience and practical results from decades of hands-on gardening.

Tuesday, March 31, 2026

How to Build a Raised Garden Bed: Metal vs. Wood vs. Stone


A beginner-friendly guide based on real raised beds I’ve used in my own garden: metal kits, wooden frames, and stone or paver beds that hold soil in place for the long term.

Why your raised bed material matters

If you’re new to raised bed gardening, it can feel like everyone online has a different opinion. Some gardeners say wood is the only “real” option. Others swear by metal kits. A few insist you can build a raised bed out of anything you find in the garage.

The truth is simple: not all raised beds perform the same, not all materials last, and not all designs protect your soil. I’ve used metal, wood, and stone raised beds in my own garden, and each one taught me something about what actually works long-term.



My metal raised bed (the Lowe’s kit that lasted)

One of the easiest raised beds I’ve ever assembled was a metal kit I bought at Lowe’s. It came with pre-cut panels, corner pieces, and hardware, and it went together quickly. I liked that I didn’t have to measure, cut, or guess. The frame was sturdy from day one.

What I appreciate most about metal raised beds is that they don’t rot, they don’t warp, and they don’t attract termites. Even after heavy rains and seasonal changes, the structure stays solid. For beginners who want something durable and low-maintenance, a metal raised bed kit is a smart place to start.

Here are photos of my metal raised garden bed




Metal raised bed highlights

  • Long-lasting and structurally stable
  • Does not rot or bow like wood
  • No termite risk
  • Easy to assemble from a kit
  • Good choice for beginners who want reliability

My wooden raised bed (beautiful, but short-lived)

My husband built me a wooden raised bed, and it was beautiful. The natural wood looked classic and warm in the garden. But we made the same choice many beginners make: we used untreated wood so it would be safe for vegetables and herbs.

Untreated wood is gentle on your soil, but it breaks down quickly. Moisture, soil contact, and insects all work against it. Within a few seasons, the boards began to rot and bow, and eventually we had to replace the wood. Wooden raised beds can be a good option if you love the look and understand that they are temporary.

Wooden raised bed highlights

  • Classic, natural appearance in the garden
  • Easy to customize in size and shape
  • Untreated wood is safe, but breaks down quickly
  • Boards can rot, warp, and bow over time
  • Even longer-lasting woods eventually need replacement

My stone raised bed (raised in-ground with pavers)

One of my favorite beds is actually a raised in-ground bed held together with paver stones. The soil is mounded and contained by the stone border, creating a permanent structure that blends into the landscape. It feels more like part of the garden than a separate box.

Stone and paver beds do not rot, do not rust, and do not attract pests. When they are built on level ground and stacked correctly, they hold soil naturally and stay in place for years. For gardeners who want a long-term, low-maintenance solution, stone or paver beds are an excellent option.

Stone / paver raised bed highlights

  • Most permanent option for raised beds
  • Does not rot or rust
  • Does not attract wood-damaging pests
  • Holds soil in place naturally
  • Blends into the landscape as a long-term feature

Step-by-step: how to build a raised garden bed

Once you choose your material, the basic process for building a raised bed is the same. The goal is a stable frame, healthy soil depth, and a layout that is easy to reach and maintain.



Step 1: Choose your bed type. Metal for durability and ease, wood for a classic look, or stone and pavers for a permanent structure.

Step 2: Pick the right location. Look for full sun, level ground, and easy access to water. Avoid low spots where water collects.

Step 3: Assemble or build the frame. Metal kits bolt together. Wooden beds are built by screwing boards into a rectangle. Stone or paver beds are stacked on level ground so they interlock and stay in place.

Step 4: Prepare the ground. Remove existing weeds and grass. If you want long-term weed control, you may choose to add a barrier layer that does not break down quickly.

Step 5: Add a base layer. In many cases, a few inches of rock at the bottom of the frame can help protect any barrier layer and support drainage, especially in deeper beds.

Step 6: Fill with soil. Aim for 12–18 inches of amended soil for vegetables and herbs. Deep soil supports healthy roots and better drainage.

Step 7: Plant your crops. Shallow-root vegetables, herbs, and flowers all benefit from the consistent depth and structure of a well-built raised bed.

Step 8: Water and maintain. Deep watering, seasonal soil amendments, and occasional checks on the frame will keep your raised bed productive for years.

Final thoughts for beginner gardeners

Building a raised garden bed is an investment in your soil, your plants, and your time. The material you choose will shape how long your bed lasts and how much maintenance it needs. Metal, wood, and stone all have a place in the garden, but they do not perform the same way over time.

Start with the option that fits your budget, your climate, and your long-term plans. A well-built raised bed with deep, healthy soil will always serve you better than a quick shortcut that fails after a season or two.

Footnote: I did some comparison shopping and found these stores to offer the best raised garden bed kits in 2026: Lowe’s, Home Depot, Amazon, Wayfair, and Tractor Supply. Metal kits typically range from $270–$350 depending on size and brand. Wooden kits (cedar or untreated pine) range from $80–$150. Stone or paver setups vary widely, but basic paver kits start around $100 and go up based on size and style. Prices may vary by region and season.

Disclaimer: This article is based on personal gardening experience and real-world use of metal, wood, and stone raised beds. Gardening conditions vary by region, climate, and soil type. This content is for informational purposes only and is not intended as professional construction, engineering, or horticultural advice. Always follow local building guidelines and manufacturer instructions when installing raised beds.

Raised Bed Mistakes: Why I Stopped Using Cardboard & Newspaper


A clear, beginner-friendly guide explaining why cardboard and newspaper are not truly organic options for raised beds, why these materials fail long-term, and how proper soil depth, river rock, and landscape fabric create healthier, cleaner, weed-free garden beds. 

If you’ve spent any time in Facebook gardening groups or scrolling TikTok and YouTube, you’ve probably seen the same advice repeated over and over: “Just throw cardboard or newspaper in the bottom of your raised bed it’s organic and it blocks weeds!”



It sounds simple. It sounds natural. And it sounds like the kind of shortcut every beginner gardener should be using.

But here’s the part social media never explains: Cardboard and newspaper are not truly organic, they break down too fast, and they do not block weeds long-term.



I’ve used these methods myself. I’ve watched them fail. I’ve rebuilt raised garden beds for customers who insisted on using cardboard. And I’ve seen firsthand how quickly weeds return once the paper layer collapses.



This article is written for gardeners who want the truth not trends. If you’ve been confused by the conflicting advice online about cardboard in raised beds, newspaper in raised beds, or using river rock for drainage, this will help you understand what actually works, what doesn’t, and why your raised beds deserve better than soggy cardboard.

Cardboard and Newspaper in Raised Beds Aren’t Truly Organic

Social media loves to call cardboard “organic,” but that’s only true in the most technical sense it’s made from plant fibers. That doesn’t mean it’s clean or natural for your soil.

Modern cardboard and newspaper used in raised beds can contain printing inks, adhesives, glues, dyes, coatings, tape residue, shipping chemicals, and recycled pulp from unknown sources.

When you place these materials under your soil, you’re putting all of that directly into your raised garden bed. And if you’re growing herbs or vegetables, that should matter.

The word “organic” gets thrown around loosely online, but in real gardening, organic means clean, natural, and safe for soil life not just “made from paper.”

Cardboard and Newspaper Break Down Too Fast to Be Useful

One of the biggest myths on social media is that cardboard “blocks weeds.” It doesn’t at least not for long.

Cardboard and newspaper get soggy, collapse, and decompose quickly, especially in humid climates or after a few heavy rains. Once they break down, they stop acting as a barrier.

This is why so many gardeners say, “It worked the first year!” Yes because it was still intact. By year two, it’s gone, and your raised bed behaves like it was never lined at all.

Weeds Grow Right Through Once the Paper Disappears

When the cardboard breaks down in a raised bed, grass and weeds push up into the bed almost immediately.

Grass roots find the weak spots. Perennial weeds push through the decomposed layer. You end up fighting weeds inside your raised bed — the last place you want to be pulling them.

Moisture Plus Paper Equals Mold

Cardboard and newspaper hold moisture like a sponge. When they stay damp, they mold.

That mold sits directly under your soil and root zone. Some gardeners don’t mind it, but many beginners are surprised when they see a moldy layer under their raised bed soil. It’s not something I want in my herb beds or vegetable beds.

A Real-World Example From My Own Work

I once had a customer insist I use cardboard in their raised bed. I warned them. They wanted it anyway.

Here’s what happened: the cardboard turned to mush, it molded, and the weeds came back faster than ever. The bed needed to be rebuilt.

That was the last time I used cardboard or newspaper in any raised bed.

What I Use Instead in My Raised Beds — And Why It Works Long-Term

I prefer a method that is clean, long-lasting, weed-blocking, and safe for herbs and vegetables.

I line the bottom of my wooden raised beds with landscape fabric, and I bring it up the sides and staple it in place. This prevents grasses from creeping in through the edges  something cardboard simply cannot do.

Then I add a drainage layer of river rock and my amended soil mix on top. This creates a raised bed that drains well, stays clean, and keeps weeds out for the long term.



The River Rock Drainage Myth in Raised Beds

Another trend circulating on Facebook and TikTok is the claim: “Never put rock at the bottom of a raised bed  it ruins drainage!”

This statement is half true, and that’s why it confuses beginners.

The problem isn’t the river rock. The problem is not having enough soil above it.

In a shallow raised bed with only 6–10 inches of soil, adding rock underneath can create a perched water table a zone where water hesitates to move from fine soil into coarse rock. That can lead to soggy roots and poor drainage.



But in a properly built raised bed with 18 inches or more of amended soil, the soil column is deep enough that water drains naturally, roots stay well above the rock layer, and no perched water table forms. The rock becomes a stable base, the landscape fabric stays protected, and soil doesn’t clog the fabric.

This is why my raised beds with landscape fabric, 3 inches of river rock, and 18 inches of amended soil drain beautifully. My herbs even dry out by the end of the day and need misting — the opposite of a drainage problem.

Myth-Busting Comparison Chart: Cardboard vs Landscape Fabric in Raised Beds

Cardboard & Newspaper Method (in Raised Beds)

  • Breaks down too fast and turns to mush in rain or humidity.
  • Not truly organic: contains inks, glues, dyes, coatings, and tape residue.
  • Weeds return quickly once the paper decomposes.
  • Holds moisture and encourages mold under the soil.
  • Short-term hack that may only work for one season.
  • Promoted heavily on social media because it’s cheap, quick, and easy, not because it’s effective.

Landscape Fabric + Rock + Deep Soil Method (in Raised Beds)

  • Long-lasting weed barrier that doesn’t break down like cardboard.
  • Clean and safe: no inks, dyes, or adhesives breaking down in your soil.
  • River rock layer protects the fabric and improves stability.
  • 18 inches of amended soil prevents drainage issues and root damage.
  • No mold layer like you see with soggy cardboard.
  • Professional-grade method that stays stable, clean, and reliable for years.

Final Thoughts for Beginner Gardeners

If you’re new to gardening, it’s easy to get swept up in the quick hacks and trendy shortcuts you see online. But raised beds are an investment in your time, your soil, and your harvest.

Cardboard and newspaper may be cheap and easy, but they’re not organic, long-lasting, weed-blocking, clean, or reliable.

Your garden deserves better. And so do you.

Footnote: Cardboard and newspaper methods may appear successful in the first season because the material has not yet decomposed. Once it breaks down, the weed barrier is lost, and the raised bed behaves exactly like an unlined bed.

Disclaimer: This article is based on personal gardening experience, field testing, and real-world results. Gardening conditions vary by region, climate, and soil type. Always adjust methods to suit your local environment and personal comfort level. This content is for informational purposes only and is not intended as professional horticultural or agricultural advice.

How to Fill a Raised Garden Bed the Right Way: A Beginner‑Friendly Guide


Learn the best methods for filling a raised garden bed, including weed barriers, soil mixes, and ideal soil depth for herbs and vegetables.

Most new gardeners think filling a raised bed is as simple as dumping in some dirt and planting a few herbs. But the truth is this: what you put at the bottom of your raised bed determines everything that happens above it drainage, soil health, weed pressure, and whether your plants thrive or struggle.



After years of building raised beds for herbs, vegetables, and perennial borders, I’ve learned that the foundation matters just as much as the soil itself. And because so many beginners are overwhelmed by conflicting advice, I’m breaking down the four most common methods cardboard, landscape fabric, organic layers, and soil‑only in clear, simple language.

By the end, you’ll know exactly how to build a raised bed that drains well, stays weed‑free, and grows strong, healthy plants.

1. Landscape Fabric Method (Best for Permanent, Tidy Raised Beds)

If you want a raised bed that stays neat, drains well, and keeps out aggressive grasses, this is the most reliable method. It’s the system I’ve used for years because it creates a clean, stable base and supports shallow‑rooted herbs beautifully.



Steps

  1. Remove grass and level the ground.
  2. Lay landscape fabric tightly across the base.
  3. Add a thin layer of river rock or gravel (optional but stabilizing).
  4. Add 2 inches of compost or leaf mold.
  5. Fill the rest with amended topsoil (explained below).
  6. Water well to settle the soil.

What “Amended Topsoil” Really Means

Amended topsoil = topsoil that has been improved by mixing in better ingredients.

Common raised‑bed blends include:

  • topsoil + potting soil
  • topsoil + compost
  • potting soil + composted manure
  • topsoil + potting soil + compost (my preferred mix)

This creates a rich, loose, well‑drained soil that herbs and vegetables thrive in.



Why I Never Reuse the Soil I Dig Out

The removed soil is usually:

  • full of weed seeds
  • full of crabgrass seeds
  • heavy Missouri clay
  • compacted
  • low in organic matter

Putting it back into your raised bed is like planting into a weed nursery. Fresh, amended soil gives you a clean start and healthier plants.

2. Cardboard / Sheet Mulching Method (Best for Converting Lawn to Garden)

Cardboard is the go‑to method for gardeners who want to smother grass without digging. It’s simple, inexpensive, and great for building soil naturally but it’s not perfect for every raised bed.



Steps

  1. Lay cardboard or thick newspaper over the grass.
  2. Overlap seams so weeds can’t slip through.
  3. Add a layer of leaves, sticks, or grass clippings.
  4. Add compost.
  5. Top with 8–12 inches of soil.
  6. Water thoroughly to help layers settle.

3. Organic Matter Base (Best for Filling Tall Beds on a Budget)

If you’re working with a deep raised bed and want to save money on soil, layering organic matter at the bottom is a smart way to fill space while improving soil over time.



Steps

  1. Add sticks, branches, or wood chips to the bottom.
  2. Add a layer of leaves or straw.
  3. Add compost.
  4. Top with 12–18 inches of soil.
  5. Water to settle the layers.

4. Soil‑Only Method (Best for Temporary Beds or Clean Soil Areas)

Sometimes the simplest method is the best especially if you’re working in an area without invasive grasses. Filling a raised bed with soil alone gives you a clean, straightforward start.

Steps

  1. Remove grass if needed.
  2. Level the ground.
  3. Fill the bed with high‑quality topsoil and compost.
  4. Water to settle.

How Much Soil Depth Do Herbs Need?

Herbs are shallow‑rooted plants, but they still need enough soil depth to drain well and stay healthy.

  • 6–10 inches minimum
  • 12 inches recommended
  • 18 inches ideal

This depth drains quickly, warms fast in spring, prevents root rot, and keeps soil loose and oxygen‑rich  exactly what culinary and tea herbs prefer.

Conclusion

A raised bed is only as good as the foundation you build beneath it. Whether you choose landscape fabric, cardboard, organic layers, or simple soil, the key is understanding how each method affects drainage, weeds, and long‑term soil health.

Start with a clean base, use a rich amended soil mix, and give your herbs and vegetables the depth they need to thrive. Your garden will thank you all season long.

Disclaimer: This article was written by Susang6, a professional gardener since 1999. Written from personal experience for informational purposes only.

Thursday, July 6, 2023

Grow Sweet Potato Vine Outdoors

  

Sweet potato vine is an easy-to-grow houseplant but it also can be grown outdoors during the summer months.  Then bring it indoors during the cool and cold months and it will add lovely green color to your space.

 


Normally I do not plant anything during the peak summer when the heat is extreme.  But that does not mean that it cannot be done.  Today my brother surprised me with sweet potato vines.  He saw them at Lowes and knew they would make a pretty plant for a hanging container so he bought it for me.

 

I planted my vines in a hanging basket.  I used miracle-grow potting soil and amended the soil with some manure.  Two vines were planted in the container so that there would be ample space.  After the vines were planted, I watered them well and found the drainage holes at the bottom of the container were okay. 

 


Cedar mulch was added around the plants to help keep the soil moist since dry soil would be hard on a newly planted sweet potato vine.

 

I hung the container on my porch where the plants would get six hours of light per day. Morning sun is best if your area is extremely hot.  My porch has shade in the afternoon and then some sun at the end of the day.  As a rule sweet potato vine needs 6 hours of sun but will tolerate partial sun.

 


If you plan on growing your sweet potato vine indoors then set the container near a sunny window where the plant can get 6 hours of sun per day.  Water to keep the soil moist but not soggy.

 

If your plant gets too full or vines too long you can trim to control the growth and to keep the plant's shape.

Learn more by reading my other sweet potato vine article 

Wednesday, June 14, 2023

Best Way to Get Rid of Poison Ivy

 About a week after the rain stopped we noticed that poison ivy was growing on our backyard fence.   We had to get rid of it because the entire plant can cause an itchy rash.


 

My husband said he would pull out the entire plant from its roots and dispose of it in a trash bag. This method will work but you may have to do it a few times.  

Before you begin you should put on protected glasses and cover your nose and mouth with a mask.  You will also wear long sleeve shirt and garden gloves. Be sure to wear pants and garden boots.   Best to not have any skin exposed to protect you from getting this toxic ivy oil on your skin and causing a rash.

Dispose of the poison ivy in a trash bag.  Don’t put in your compost because even dried poison ivy can cause you to get a rash and you don’t want to burn it either because it can cause lung irritation. 

 After pulling the poison ivy out by the roots it would be good to treat the area with a herbicide such as Ortho MAX Poison Ivy & Tough Brush Killer.

By treating the soil with an herbicide you will be preventing future growth.

Friday, June 12, 2020

Growing Sunflowers from Birdseed


I had not planned on growing sunflowers from birdseed but when I saw that seedlings grew from fallen seeds I was excited. All of the seedlings needed to be transplanted because they were growing too close. I did transplant all seedlings into a sunny garden bed. 




Sunflowers grow best in a sunny location and in soil that is well-drained. I found that the sunflowers are not particular about the type of soil as flowers have grown in rocky dirt as well as rich organic soil. The sunflower is a strong plant and as long as you give it what it wants, sun, water, and protection from wildlife; birds, squirrels, and deer then the sunflower will grow well.

How to grow sunflowers

Since I was planting birdseed I was not aware of the type of sunflower. The birdseed could produce a large flower or medium size so to be safe I did separate the seedling by planting them 2 feet apart.

I dug a trench that was two inches deep then added the seedlings 2 feet apart. Back-filled the trench and firm the soil around the seedling stem.


The seedlings were watered twice a day, morning and mid-afternoon so that the soil never dried out. Once the sunflower was established (20 days) I watered it once daily as this plant is drought resistant.

To help retain moisture I added cypress mulch around the sunflower stems.

The sunflower is a hardy and fast-growing flower on average the plant matured and developed seeds in approximately 80 days.

The birdseed produced flowers that were medium size but I did grow a few rather large sunflowers that were three feet tall. The taller flowers did need to be staked because the stems would break easily during a rainstorm or on a windy day.

Throughout the summer I would add new seedlings that grew from the birdseed as a new row planting and by doing this I had continuous sunflower blooms until the frost in the fall.

Enjoy this end-of-summer blooms as cut flowers for a centerpiece or harvest to enjoy the tasty seeds.


Pest Control

The sunflower is a magnet for birds, squirrels, and deer. The deer enjoy eating the entire plant but really like the flower blooms. Squirrels and birds love the seeds.

To keep the deer away from sunflowers I installed a 6-foot chicken wire fence around my sunflowers. To keep the birds and squirrels away I kept the bird feeders filled with their favorite seeds. Of course, there were always a few birds that preferred fresh seeds from the flower.

Here are some products I created from photographs, watercolor illustrations, and graphic designs of sunflowers.

Tuesday, December 17, 2019

Christmas Cactus After Holiday Care


If you love indoor plants that have beautiful flowers and are easy to grow, then a Christmas cactus may be the perfect plant for you.

I received a Christmas cactus that was covered with buds but had no blooms. So I fertilized it with Miracle-gro bloom booster every two weeks and in no time I had beautiful pink blooms. The flowers only lasted one day but I had many buds to enjoy during the Christmas holiday.

Unlike other cactus, the Christmas cactus will thrive in cooler temperature. An ideal temperature would be 68 degrees. So a cooler room with moderate light is best for your Christmas cactus. Do not put your cactus in direct light and a southern exposure would be too hot and would burn the leaves. I prefer to set my cactus off to the side so that the light is moderate and not direct.

Know that over watering your cactus will kill it. Evenly moist soil is not good for your Christmas cactus. I would recommend that you let your cactus soil dry. before watering. Allow the water to drain out of the pot. Do not allow the water to collect in the saucer. Instead of watering your plant daily you should lightly mist the leaves of your plant daily to maintain a level of humidity around your cactus plant.

After Christmas caring for you cactus is easy as long as you keep the plant in a cool room away from a draft or a heat source, provide it with moderate light and do not over water then your plant should thrive and live a long life of 20 to 30 years.

If you have cats or dogs you do not need to worry about the Cactus plant. According to the ASPCA poisonous plant database the Christmas cactus is not toxic or poisonous to cats or dogs.

Learn how to force your Christmas cactus to re-bloom by viewing this video.




Sunday, September 30, 2018

Indoor Growing Tips for Chives

Chives are a delicious perennial herb that is in the onion, leek, and garlic family. You can grow chives outdoors and indoors in a container as long as it gets ample light in a room that has good air circulation and the soil does not dry out.


Start the chives outdoors on the ground or in a container. The chive is easy to grow from a bulb or you can plant it by sowing seeds in the spring. When fully grown chives tall sword-like leaves will reach a height of 10 to 12 inches. When planting it is best to grow a clump of chives in a container or on the ground and I recommend planting 5 or 6 bulbs so the plant can grow into an attractive clump.
Harvest the leaves of fully grown chives for your salads, soups, 
stews, dips and herb bread recipes


The best way to grow chives indoors is to dig up chives from your outdoor garden after a hard freeze and replant them into a container. Clip back the foliage before setting on your sunny spot. Water and fertilize the chives and wait for the new growth. You have tricked the chives into thinking it is spring and chances are there will be pretty purple flowers on your plant. Learn more about herbs here

View recipes for chives below